How should I prune plants during winter?

Sharpen the secateurs! The first chore, in all but frosty areas, is rose pruning. Be bold, leaving only an open framework of three or four main stems. Spray these and the surrounding soil with lime sulfur to clean up pests and diseases.

Other plants to prune when bare include hydrangeas, wisteria and grapes.

The peak cold of early August is the best time to give gardenias their main pruning. Cuttings of frangipanis will make instant new trees; leave them to dry for a few weeks, then pot or plant into a sandy mix, adding stakes for support.

Cut ornamental grasses almost to ground level to rejuvenate and spray lawns for bindii as soon as their ferny leaves appear.

What flowers should I plant in a winter garden?

Although many plants are resting, spring bulbs, winter-flowering natives and flowering hedges are growing actively, including the coastal tea tree, Grevillea ‘Fire Cracker’, Grevillea ‘Deua Gold’, heath-leaved banksia, and silver princess eucalyptus. Keep these watered and fertilised for peak performance through the cold season.

Other flowering plants perfect for winter gardens include lavender, hardenbergia, daphne, paper daisy and snowdrop.

What jobs do I need to do in my garden during winter?

• Feed citrus in late July, using an all-purpose citrus fertiliser.
• Keep sowing carrots, spring onions, leeks, broad beans, radishes, English spinach and peas.
• If you haven’t planted asparagus and rhubarb crowns yet, don’t delay.
• Strawberries can also go in now.
• Start seeds of tomatoes, eggplant and capsicum on a warm windowsill, ready for planting when the soil warms.

What vegetables can I grow in a winter garden?

• Carrots: Grown all year round, carrots can withstand a large variety of temperatures including cold. However, these veggies go great in those winter broths and soups. To ensure you get the best out of your carrots make sure that your soil doesn’t dry out, water regularly and keep the soil moist for the first two weeks of germination.
• Broccoli: Broccoli loves to grow in a nice sunny spot, so make sure you position your growing produce where they will receive some rays of sunshine. Remember to give your veggies a good drink of water and keep the soil most.
• Garlic: A great tip for growing garlic is to not water your soil until your cloves have germinated, which will occur approximately two weeks after planting. Following this, ensure you water the soil often enough so that it remains moist but not wet.
• Spinach: Don’t forget to water your growing spinach regularly and feed once seedlings begin to emerge with a plant food and soil improver that feeds your crops above and below the ground by creating a balanced and sustainable growing environment for bigger, healthier crops. Depending on the type of spinach variety you’re growing, it should be ready to enjoy in six to eight weeks.

Turns out, it’s pretty easy to grow a variety of fresh herbs in winter! Try your hand at these:

• Thyme
• Rosemary
• Parsley
• Basil
• Mint
• Winter Savory

Herbs to grow in a winter garden

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This sweet and striking variety of citrus, which has the botanical name Citrus sinensis, is believed to have originated in Asia, but are now grown in warm climates across the globe including the Mediterranean, parts of the US, and of course, here in sunny Australia.

What are the different varieties of blood orange?

There are a number of different types of blood oranges, but these are the most common ones you’re likely to find in Australia:

• Arnold
• Maltese
• Ruby Blood
• Tarocco Ippolito
• Tarocco Meli
• Tarocco Rosso

How to grow blood oranges

Blood oranges are just like other citrus plants in that they love full sun, well-drained soil and plenty of water throughout the warmer months. They prefer hot summers and mild, dry winters – seasonal conditions that promote fruit colouration. Cropping can extend for several months from winter to spring, and fruit will remain fresh and juicy if left on the tree.

When it comes to planting or potting your blood orange tree, you’ll want to opt for deep, free-draining soil with lots of compost. Using lightly acidic soil and sheltering your tree from strong winds should help your blood orange thrive, as will a good citrus fertiliser.

Depending on the variety and whether or not the tree is potted, blood oranges can grow as tall as six metres, but usually are grown and pruned to around two metres in height. They can be planted any time of the year, but autumn and spring are preferred.

How long does it take for a blood orange tree to fruit?

It typically takes blood orange trees a year or two before they begin to bear fruit, and when they do, it’s recommended that all young fruit be removed to ensure sustained growth as your tree matures. But your patience and effort will pay off in the long-run; once your tree is established and happy, it will produce delicious and juicy fruit, usually around autumn to late spring.

Care and maintenance

We recommend feeding your blood oranges four times a year between late winter and autumn with a balanced, granular organic fertiliser. Hand-weed around the tree to avoid harming surface-feeding roots and maintain a 5–7cm layer of organic mulch over the soil under the leaf canopy. Don’t allow mulch to touch the trunk. For the juiciest oranges, water regularly, especially when fruit is forming. Immature fruit drop indicates irregular watering during fruit development.

Citrus need pruning for shaping rather than fruit production. It’s important to remove any shoots emerging from below the graft union and any shoots that are weak or spindly. As the tree grows, regularly remove any dead wood. Harvest time is the best time to shape young trees. Keep the best upright stems, and aim to create an open, vase-shaped crown, strong enough to support a heavy crop. Cut off fruit when harvesting to avoid damage.

Pests and diseases

Unfortunately, there are a number of pests and diseases you’ll need to keep an eye out for. Here’s what you need to know:

• Bronze orange bugs feed during warm seasons, weakening young trees. Spray with horticultural oil in winter while the pest is in its nymphal stage.

• Sooty mould blackens foliage, a sign that scale insects or aphids are feeding on sap. Spray thoroughly with horticultural oil.

• Citrus leaf miner tunnel through the tissue of new leaves, distorting them. Spray new growth regularly with a horticultural spray oil to deter egg-laying.

• Fruit fly may attack during autumn, so monitor with baits and traps and use a splash bait on foliage if fruit fly is about.

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Landscape expert Jason Hodges says a change in temperature doesn’t have to force us to adjust how we entertain and enjoy our outdoor areas and gardens. “A little preparation and a few smart purchases can winter-proof your backyard by transforming it into a cosy feature area that will be a family favourite year round.”

Here are Jason’s top tips for getting your garden and outdoor space winter-ready:

1. Build a solid foundation

“To make the most of your yard during winter, the important thing, before we even get to outdoor heating, is laying a solid foundation,” says Jason. That could mean ensuring there’s appropriate drainage to avoid your backyard turning into a muddy mess after heavy rainfall or laying a paved entertaining area to host cosy dinner parties. For functionality, we recommend choosing an area near your back door to pave an entertaining patio, which, if possible, should ideally be large enough to fit an outdoor setting and heating unit.

Another great way to make your outdoor space fit for winter entertaining is by investing in an awning or pergola to shelter it from the elements and create the sense of a dedicated outdoor space.

2. Lawn care

Winter can be a tough time for lawns but there are ways in which you can prevent this through careful preparation.

Choose a slow-release fertiliser and feed your lawn throughout autumn ensuring it is healthy and in good condition coming into winter. The north-east of Australia tends to get less rain than in the stormy summer months so if you experience drier winters, it’s important to keep your lawn hydrated. In the southern parts of the country where there is more rain during winter, you can switch to watering as needed. You’ll know when grass is thirsty by watching for curling of the leaves or the appearance of dry spots.

3. Choose your plants wisely

If you are in the process of renovating your garden, it’s a good time to consider plant and flower choices. Winter tends to be a time for barren branches and slow growth, but it’s absolutely possible to inject some colour and life back into your garden during the cooler months.

While there are a number of fantastic flowering plants that thrive in cold conditions, we recommend camellias, which are not only gorgeous but will flower for over six months a year in the right conditions.

If you’ve got potted plants, take the opportunity to consider their position in the garden and if you can, move them to an area that may be better suited to capturing more morning sunlight.

4. Add some outdoor lighting

With those short winter days, a well-lit garden is essential if you want to keep the good times going while hosting winter soirees.

“Outdoor lighting allows us to create an atmosphere for different purposes whether it’s for late night dinners or nights by the fire pit,” says Jason.

That’s why a practical floodlight is the best and most effective way to illuminate a large outdoor area. Although floodlights are akin to the dreaded “big light”, they are the most effective way to illuminate a large outdoor area. But once you’ve got your floodlights in place, you can then consider adding more subtle and softer lighting in the form of outdoor lanterns, fairy lights, outdoor LED strip lights and small garden stake lights. Don’t forget to look for the IP44 rating for indoor and outdoor use in all conditions when shopping for outdoor lighting.

5. Warm it up

No garden is winter-ready without a source of heat. Opt for a mobile heater to provide flexibility or a stylish yet functional fixed strip heater if you have an overhead pergola.

Backyard fire pits provide an affordable way to add real wow factor and a touch of rustic charm to your outdoor space. You can also test your DIY skills by building your own.

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Since the late 19th century, when Professor Pierre-Marie-Alexis Millardet discovered that copper can be used to destroy fungal spores on plants, gardeners have been using a mix of copper sulphate, lime and water known as Bordeaux mixture, to control pests and diseases in their gardens during winter.

This powerhouse plant spray is great at destroying spores that often lie in wait for warmer conditions. It’s also suitable for organic gardens and farms, making it a great alternative to store-bought sprays.

But before you get spraying, here’s everything you need to do to prep your fruit trees, as well as a simple step-by-step guide to concocting your very own Bordeaux mixture.

1. Do an annual clean-up

Before applying copper or lime, the first step in protecting fruit crops from both pests and diseases is to clean up.

Old leaves and fruit may harbour hidden overwintering eggs or spores from pests or diseases. By collecting spoiled fruit and raking up fallen leaves from around productive plants, you’re not just making your garden look tidier, you’re also removing spores. Don’t use the fruit and leaves for mulching, as they remain a source of reinfection and reinfestation, although they can be hot composted.

If you don’t have time to make a hot compost heap, simply bury the lot in the garden by placing the fruit half a metre deep in the soil, followed by leaves in the bottom of a trench one spade deep where they can rot without spreading problems.

2. Prune your trees

When deciduous plants are leafless in winter, weak, dead, fractured or rubbing branches are readily seen and pruned off. This not only improves the look of the plant, but removes areas that are easy targets for fungi, bacteria, and pests. Make sure your pruning equipment is sharp, so wounds are clean and not ragged. To prevent the spread of any bacterial and viral disease around a garden or orchard, sterilise your equipment in between pruning each tree or shrub. To do this, dip the blades in disinfectant for 30 seconds. We recommend using tea tree oil.

Alternatively, you can make up your own disinfectant with a mixture of one part household bleach to 99 parts water. Never paint pruning wounds on trees. Wound preparations have been proven to cause more problems than they are alleged to cure. Pruning wounds will naturally heal and seal far better if left alone.

3. Give them a good wash

Many common pests and diseases are resting now, hiding unseen as eggs and spores lodged in bark and bark fissures. Reset the balance using a process known as ‘winter washing’ on all deciduous fruit trees and shrubs, from apples and figs to peaches and pomegranates. This treatment is also applied to ornamental plants such as roses and frangipani that suffer fungal problems later in the year.

Bordeaux spray and lime sulphur are commonly used winter washes. Both are very effective at controlling fungal spores along with the eggs of most pest insects and mites. Yates Lime Sulphur Concentrate is an affordable stand-out for eradicating mites and leaf curl, a rather pesky fungal disease that commonly affects peach and nectarine trees.

How do you make your own Bordeaux spray?

If you have a lot of plants to treat, making your own Bordeaux spray is an economical and effective way to protect your crop. Here’s how to do it:

1. Mix ¾ cup of builders’ lime with 2.25L of water in a plastic bucket. Do not use metal buckets as the mix reacts with metal. Stir well with a wooden or plastic spoon.

2. Take a separate plastic bucket, add ½ cup of copper sulfate, available from hardware stores or chemists, then add 2.25L of water. Thoroughly stir, then pour this mixture into the lime water, while stirring continuously. The Bordeaux spray is ready to use immediately.

3. Pour the mix into a sprayer. Wet all plant surfaces thoroughly, especially bark fissures. Bordeaux spray (and lime sulphur) settles, so shake the sprayer every now and then.

4. Wash off any spray that splashes onto turf or other foliage using fresh water. Thoroughly clean out sprayers with warm soapy water, paying particular attention to nozzles.

5. Bordeaux spray and lime sulphur burn leaves, which is why they must be applied during winter dormancy before flower buds or leaves open.

How do you care for citrus trees in winter?

Although citrus are evergreen in winter, they also benefit from care at this time of the year. Established trees that have become infected with melanose disease or brown rot disease need special care.

First, remove old mulch and fallen fruit. Either hot-compost or bury this waste as it will be contaminated with disease. Apply fresh mulch around trees, making sure it doesn’t touch the trunk. Apart from cooling the soil, controlling weeds and retaining moisture, a layer of clean mulch 5cm thick helps to break the cycle of infection. Fresh mulch reduces the risk of fungal spores in infected soil being splashed by rain (or irrigation) up onto healthy citrus leaves.

Any infected citrus trees with melanose disease or brown rot disease should then be winter washed with cupric hydroxide. Make sure all parts of the citrus trees are thoroughly soaked, especially leaf undersides, bark and bark fissures.

If you have experienced trouble with stink bugs, such as bronze orange bugs or spined citrus bugs, winter is also the time to control these pests. Spray trees twice in mid-winter using horticultural oil. The oil-based spray is particularly good at smothering the nymphal stages of the bugs, dramatically reducing the number that reaches adulthood.

In warm, dry regions, water citrus regularly, especially in windy weather, but don’t feed them until after they finish flowering. Too much nitrogen encourages citrus to abort embryonic fruit, and the lush, leafy growth will only attract virus-transmitting aphids.

Should you fertilise fruit trees in winter?

When and how much you should fertilise your fruit trees depends on the maturity and type of fruit tree, but generally, fertiliser should be applied to established fruit trees towards the end of winter or early spring to support new growth coming through. Younger fruit trees will benefit from being fertilised in spring, however, you shouldn’t feed trees that have been freshly planted as they need time to set down roots and find their feet so to speak.

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Whether you’re a novice or a plant perfectionist, the rules are the same: you must provide a certain level of care to create a thriving indoor garden. Here are our top tips for how to keep your indoor plants alive and well.

1. What is the correct amount of light for an indoor plant?

When buying an indoor plant, pay attention to the light requirements on the plant’s tag. Sometimes, indoor plants don’t thrive as well as they should because they’re not provided with the right type of light. Indoor plants can fall into four basic light requirements – direct sun, bright indirect light, light shade, and full shade.

If your plant isn’t getting enough light, its lower leaves can turn yellow and fall off, have slow or no growth, variegated leaves can turn solid green, or new shoots reach out toward the light.

If your plant is getting too much light, brown scorch marks can appear on leaves, your plant may wilt during the hottest part of the day, or leaves can become dry and fall off.

• Colour pops (Guzmania bromeliad)
• Prayer plant ‘Quiet time’ (Maranta leuconeura)
• Flamingo flower ‘Red blast’ (Anthurium)
• White orchid ‘Pure elegance’ (Orchis)
• Mother-in-law’s-tongue ‘Dense strands’ (Mansevieria trifasciata)
• Fab fronds Rhapis excels (bamboo/lady palm)

Popular indoor plants

2. Ensure the temperature is right

Most indoor plants tend to be native to tropical or subtropical countries so their natural growing climate is similar to the temperature inside most homes, between 15°C and 25°C.

Heat generated from fridges and heaters can make indoor plants too warm, so keep them away from the heat source. As long as your home, generally, stays within the temperature range above, your indoor plants should have no dramas with temperature.

3. How to choose the best pot or planter

If your plant pot is too large it can be heavy to move around, and also retain too much water that could lead to root rot. On the other hand, if the pot is too small, it can restrict the plant’s roots and its overall growth.

Clay or porous pots are best as they allow air to pass through the sides of the pot and provide better aeration to the roots. A lot of indoor plants only need watering once a week, but make sure you have a saucer underneath to catch the drained water.

4. Make sure you have the right tools and potting mixes

A small watering can is the easiest tool to water your indoor plants and a hairdresser’s water spray bottle is handy to spray a mist on the plants’ leaves to ensure adequate humidity.

A good potting mix should include soil conditioners that provide the plant with all the good stuff such as nutrients, support, aeration and adequate drainage. Premium blends should have these properties listed on the pack.

5. Make sure you feed your plants

To get the best from your indoor garden, remember to feed it. A slow-release fertiliser is the best way to feed your plants. You can buy slow-release fertiliser specially made for indoor plants, which will gradually fertilise plants throughout the year. Supplementing this with added liquid plant tonic, such as Nitrosol, will promote luscious green growth. This is normally applied once every three weeks or so.

The best tools to keep your indoor plants healthy

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Starter pack

$59.95, Willow

Promising to remedy even the fussiest of house plants, Willow is bringing smart tech to soil. This small, unobtrusive device sits your plant to monitor light, temperature, humidity and moisture, alerting you via a clever app when your plant is not doing so well – and suggests what to do about it.

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Sophie Conran precision secateurs

$108, Hardtofind

A good pair of secateurs makes light work of pruning and trimming – both maintenance musts. Crafted from a single piece of stainless steel, these secateurs are strong, durable and rust-resistant. Every avid gardener should have some!

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Leaf Supply: A guide to keeping happy house plants by Lauren Camilleri and Sophia Kaplan

$38.75 (usually $49.99), Booktopia

It’s just like they say; knowledge is power. If you’re a keen plant connoisseur in the making, this book will become your bible; it features realistic and down-to-earth advice on over 100 indoor plants, including how to choose them, whether they’re pet-friendly or not, and how to care for them long-term.

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So how do you care for plants during winter? If you live in a tropical or subtropical climate there is no real need to do anything, but if you live in a temperate climate it’s important to make some slight adjustments.

Below are five important care tips for indoor plants when the mercury starts to drop.

1. Increase sun exposure

The sun changes course during winter. It is lower in the sky and simply not around as much. Track the sun in your home during this period and position your indoor plants where they can soak up some rays. Exposure to a couple of hours of direct sunlight is important in winter because the sun is weaker and will gently nurture your plant rather than scorching its leaves.

2. Check the temperature

Extremes in temperature are a lot more common in winter because you have the hot blast of a heater alongside icy drafts that sneak in through gaps under doors. As you can imagine, these extremes can be difficult for your plant to cope with, so protect it from both. Again, this comes down to where you position your plant: keep it well clear of a heater’s radiation and spots where it could be exposed to cold blasts.

You should also be wary of windows. If the plant is touching cold glass there is a risk it will get thermal shock and the leaves will turn brown and fall off.

Don’t plant directly into ceramic or terracotta pots because the plant will get cold during winter.

Planting tip

3. Slow down on the water

Due to the weakened light conditions, most plants use winter as a resting phase; they slow down their metabolism and stop growth. As such, you should water plants less, around once per fortnight – but be aware that heaters will speed up drying out. A good test to know when to water is by poking your finger into the soil – if it’s dry, give the plant a drink.

4. Fertilise

A slow-release fertiliser is the best way to feed your plants. Apply a granule feed in autumn and spring and your plant should have more than enough nutrients to survive winter.

An enemy of us all, dust can slow down your plant’s growth by impeding photosynthesis. Clean leaves with a (50:50) solution of milk and water to keep them glossy and dust-free.

Be sure to keep up regular care and position in a suitable environment and your indoor plant should not only survive, but thrive during winter!

5. Invest in smart devices

If all fails and you’re ready to throw your hands up in surrender, there is one more thing you can try first. The era of the smart home now extends to our indoor plants, thanks to Willow. Here to remedy even the fussiest of house plants, this simple, unobtrusive device sits in the soil to monitor light, temperature, humidity, and moisture and connects to your phone via a hub to alert you when your plant is not doing so well – and suggests what to do about it. You can connect one hub to up to 40 sensors, so all of your plant care info sits in one place – ideal if you have to leave your plants with a sitter while you’re away!

Get your Willow starter pack here.

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For most of us, winter signals the arrival of cosy throws, open fires, slippers and warming soups. Unfortunately, the same can’t be said for our feathered outdoor friends. While granted, chickens aren’t opposed to a bit of mud and even rain, there comes a time of the year when body fluff just doesn’t cut it anymore. And when that happens, it’s worth stepping in to ensure your chickens are kept warm and cosy.

“Chickens, for the most part, are hardy birds; they can tolerate temperatures below freezing. However, when rain, wind, and sudden temperature drops occur, your chooks do face a tough time,” says Ben Braithwaite, founder of ChickenGuard automated coop door openers. To help you get in the know, combat chill, and keep your chickens warm in winter, we asked Ben to share his expert tips and tricks.

Keep your chooks and their coop dry

“Minimising dampness should be the top priority as moisture build-up can lead to mould and cause respiratory problems in chooks,” says Ben. “Keeping a coop insulated is indeed important in the winter months, however, because the instinct is to keep our chickens warm, many flock owners make the mistake of creating an airtight coop in winter which doesn’t allow for proper ventilation. This leads to moisture, ammonia and mould build-up and keeps polluted air trapped in the coop.” Keep things nice and dry by leaving the coop door open when the sun is out and ensuring any wet litter or bedding gets replaced regularly.

Maintain your chicken coop

“To minimise draft without reducing ventilation, you can reinforce and insulate the coop walls with cardboard or straw and allow airflow to remain through the top of the coop,” says Ben. “Ensure your coop gets airflow during the day and is shut tight at night. Make sure you check regularly for odd holes and gaps in your coop so you can keep them covered and repair them.” According to Ben, you can also top up your chickens’ nesting boxes with extra bedding to create a super snuggly spot for them to rest at night.

Make sure your chickens are safe and secure

Much like for us humans, a secure home is key for your chooks, especially, it turns out, in winter! “Due to a depletion in food, during the winter months predators can become more active and turn their attention to your poor chickens,” says Ben.

While it can be pretty easy to forget to open and close your chooks’ door, using an automated system that is responsive to time or light will help to keep predators at bay. “As winter mornings are darker, it’s harder to get out of bed early. [An automated door] will not only keep your flock safe from predators but take the toil out of cold and dark winter mornings.”

The deep litter method

Referred to as the “deep litter waste management method”, this essentially involves creating a compost pile of the chooks’ droppings and bedding in their coop. “When done correctly, decomposing litter can produce heat, adding an extra layer of warmth for your flock,” explains Ben.

However, if you’re going to utilise this method you should be willing to maintain the compost properly to ensure it doesn’t pose a health hazard! This includes ensuring ventilation, monitoring the moisture (the litter should be equally moist throughout and certainly not too wet), and removal when it reaches about 12 inches in depth. Also, if one of your girls develops a disease, be sure to stop using the deep litter method as it may cause spread.

Feed them well

We all crave warm, carb-heavy food in winter, so it should come as no surprise that it is the same for our feathered friends. “Maintaining body warmth in colder months requires energy, so it’s imperative to feed your chickens more in the winter months,” says Ben. “Whilst keeping their diet balanced and nutritious, increase the amount of protein and carbohydrates in their diets by providing a scratch feed late afternoon.” You can even heat a portion of frozen veggies in the microwave for an extra treat!

Winter supplies for chickens

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Friendly Earth straw 30L

$13.57, PETstock

Creating insulation in the coop is essential, especially in winter months. These natural chemical-free pine shavings have already had the excess dust removed, and will help to create a cosy nest for your chooks.

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Vetafarm Origins insect & mite ready-to-use spray 500ml

$34.97, PETstock

If your girls get infected with mites or insects, it’s important to treat them right away. This spray is easy to use, even for runaways who hate being caught and held. It will get rid of those pesky bugs, stat.

Sizes: 250ml, 500ml

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Peters Energy Block for Chickens with Dried Mealworms 280g

$12.48, PETstock

Pump up the protein for your chickens in the cooler months by giving them a little extra treat. This high-energy food ‘block’ contains mealworms, and is high in Linoleic Acid – an essential ingredient for healthy eggs.

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When I first started gardening, I identified with English and French formal gardens and their clean, orderly lines, with endless topiary and pleached hedging with one or two flower types. The gardeners I spoke to always talked about pests and diseases affecting their plants. That was until I had the privilege of visiting King Charles’s Highgrove Gardens, where diversity, sustainability and organic gardening were pioneered long before fashionable.

While I still absolutely love that formal style of garden, I now understand that you can have lovely clean lines (as we do at Rosedale Farm) with mountains of diversity that require less human interference.

Why is plant diversity important for a garden?

A diverse garden is more resilient to challenges such as climate, pests and diseases. By adding a couple of bird boxes to encourage the wrens and finches, you could help reduce the mosquitoes, flies and spiders around your home as they love to feast on these insects. And even in the smallest garden, you could have native stingless bees, which happily live in a shoebox-sized house and will become an endless source of interest.

You will also have noticed in your own garden that different plant species have different levels of resistance to diseases, pests, and environmental stressors.

Rosedale Farm’s diverse garden

People are always surprised that in our one-acre vegetable garden, filled with more than 170 different flowers, fruit trees, vegetables and roses, we don’t spray or use chemicals. This diversity in turn helps control pests, and increase pollination and overall ecosystem health. For example, I used to plant an entire bed with corn, but now we have corn in the centre, basil around the corn, and dahlias, zinnias and marigolds at the ends.

I have a formal hedged garden, with roses, catnip, dahlias, lavender, wisteria, sage and zinnias, then five metres away, the tall golden grasses of a paddock that create refuge for quail, finches and small lizards.

How to increase diversity in your garden

For a garden lover such as myself, a diverse garden with plants in a variety of colours, shapes and sizes can be far more visually appealing and create a more interesting, vibrant space, not to mention be far less maintenance. You may even choose to break the garden up into different areas or zones with a variety of plantings.

● Start by adding new plant varieties to your garden.
● Consider installing a bird box to attract insect-loving birds.
● Install an insect hotel or a native stingless beehive to add new life and interest into your environment.
● Place shallow dishes of water in the garden to encourage wildlife.
● If you are growing vegetables, make sure you plant flowers nearby.

So when you are next at your garden centre, consider selecting plants you don’t already have and, even better, plants that attract birds and insects.

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If you long for a white Christmas, save yourself the airfare and surround yourself with snow-white flowers and ivory petals that fall like snowflakes. Outside, there’s a white flower for every spot in the garden. Green and white is a classic combination that lends itself to a variety of different garden styles, from cottage style gardens to hardy coastal landscapes that feature stunning silver plants and white flowers for softeness and fragrance.

Gardenias are arguably the most popular white flowering plant, found in many Australian gardens, followed by frangipanis, hydragenas, magnolias and star jasmine. Whether it’s their fragrance you love or simply their classic beauty and charm they bring to a garden, these white flowering plants are popular for reason.

The most-popular plants with white flowers to grow in your garden

1. Gardenias

Gardenias are perfect for areas exposed to the morning sun. Their soft, ivory flowers curl deliciously in the centre and look beautiful in vases or float bowls; their sweet scent filling the room.

Good varieties to look for include Gardenia ‘Florida’, which flowers non-stop through the warmer months, while ‘Magnifica’ is larger in flower and form.

Placate gardenias with rich soil, good food and regular water. Continually pick the blooms to keep the plant flowering and compact. Feed gardenias every three months and mulch with well-rotted manures to prevent leaves from yellowing.

2. Star jasmine

Enclose your garden in clusters of sweetly scented star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides). This perfectly behaved climber with emerald-green foliage and delicate white blooms needs wire for support and will thrive in both sun and shade.

Train star jasmine to grow along wires on a wall or fence; trim them into brilliant topiaries or grow them as a ground cover. Lightly prune jasmine after flowering to keep it compact.

3. Frangipani

Shake a frangipani tree and watch the flowers fall from the boughs to create a pretty carpet. Their beauty is not limited to the great outdoors, you can also add the flowers to your bath or sprinkle them in float bowls.

Keep frangipanis healthy with a canopy check in early spring, removing any spongy or diseased branches. Trees grow to five metres and are great for garden shade. The common white frangipani grows well in containers, but resist watering in winter and gently feed during spring and summer.

4. Agapanthus

Plants with bold, strappy foliage create focal points in the garden. Groupings of white agapanthus offer giant starbursts of white blooms.

Plant them in areas of full sun and choose white-flowering cultivars such as ‘Snowgoose’, ‘Snowball’ and ‘Snowstorm’ for more abundant and longer-lasting flowers. Feed plants with a complete fertiliser in autumn and spring and always remove finished flower heads.

5. Philadelphus (Mock Orange)

The Philadelphus plant is a hardy, deciduous plant native to many temperate regions of the world, including south-eastern Europe, North and Central America, and even in the Himalayas. Its small, white to cream flowers are celebrated for their heady aroma that’s reminiscent to that of orange blossoms – giving way to its common name, the “mock orange”.

6. Wild Iris

Wild Iris (Dietes grandiflora) is easy to grow and flowers reliably in sun and shade. Enjoy its long, strappy green foliage all year round and pretty, iris-like flowers with soft blue centres at Christmas time. Remove entire flower stems after flowering.

7. Hibiscus

White Hibiscus ‘Swan Lake’ grows happily in full sun or dappled shade. When visitors arrive, pick the blooms and float them in outdoor water bowls or around the pool.

Hibiscus can grow quite large, which gives a wild tropical feel to your garden, but if you want to keep it contained, prune after frosts in winter.

Considering hibiscus only flower on new growth, pruning will keep the flowers at eye level. Feed plants every season with well-rotted manures and fertiliser. To prevent hibiscus beetle, spray plants with organic plant oils every four weeks during the warmer months and use Confidor, a broad-spectrum insecticide, during spring.

8. Waterlilies

On a deck or in a courtyard, a large vessel filled with white waterlilies is simply beautiful. Tropical white waterlilies flower at night and close in the heat of the day. Try ‘Wood’s White Knight’ variety for stunning aquatic flora. Their large lily pads cool the water and provide a perfect habitat for frogs and fish.

9. Cactus

Sun-loving ‘Queen of the Night’ cactus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) is the party girl of the plant world, bursting into flower in the dark of night and closing at dawn. In subtropical climates they love to grow on the trunks of trees where you can forget about them until Christmas, when their huge buds open at dusk to reveal enormous ivory blooms with a full fragrance.

10. Hydrangeas

Side passages and south-facing gardens tend to be cold, dark and drab. Inject life into these spots with white hydrangeas and white-flowering ground covers such as Liriope (Liriope muscari variegata), Lamium (Lamium maculatium) and Sutera (Sutera bacopa).

Hydrangea are brilliant for Christmas displays and their soft, full flowers add volume to any arrangement. Extend their vase life by cutting stems on a 45-degree angle under water.

Preferring the southern areas of the house, hydrangeas must be kept moist and mulched with well-rotted manures.

If you prefer an evergreen shrub for shade, rather than a deciduous hydrangea, don’t forget Spider lilies (Crinum pedunculatum or Hymenocallis littoralis); their broad green leaves remain lush and green all year with a pretty display of fine white spidery flowers.

Designing with white

• In the garden, use white flowers to add a classic touch – white helps to lift the energy and draw the eye.
• Use white variegated leafed plants as visual starbursts, attracting the eye to areas of the garden you wish to highlight
• Use white flowers in the shade to brighten up dark spots

11. White waratah

These magnificent flowers are native to eastern Australia and are usually red. This rare white form is known as ‘Wirrimbirra White’. The waratah flowers in spring.

12. Flannel flower

These white ‘petals’ have a felted texture and are actually bracts surrounding the tiny true flowers clustered in the centre. Flannel flowers grow from seed or cutting and flower in spring and summer.

13. White chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums, particularly white varieties, are traditional bouquets given to mothers on Mother’s Day in Australia. They light up gardens in autumn.

14. Foxglove

Foxgloves have tall spires of flowers 50cm to 100cm high. Usually mauvy pink there are also white forms that look striking in flower gardens. Foxgloves flower in spring and summer.

15. Magnolia

There are many different varieties of magnolia, each producing a different flower. Many magnolias have pink-coloured flowers but some produce pure white blooms that make a classic, scuptural statement in any garden. Little Gem is a popular magnolia variety that produces white fragrant flowers with rounded petals that are smaller than other magolia flowers such as the Magnolia Grandiflora and Macrophylla.

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Plants can bring new dimensions to your garden in the form of striking foliage colours and textures, particularly natives, of which there are an estimated 24,000 different species! Here, we look at seven versatile and tolerant natives that will bring colour and depth into your garden in different, intriguing ways.

1. Syzygium ‘Big Red’

The ‘Big Red’ is a great medium-sized lillypilly. Its glossy deep red new growth really sets off the plant with the tips having a dark crimson glow about them. This variety is fast growing and makes the perfect hedge specimen – great for screening the neighbours or hiding the shed. You can trim it to any shape you like and it is also widely used as topiary specimen.

2. Acacia ‘Limelight’

The Acacia ‘Limelight‘ is famed for its lush, lime green foliage and compact shape, and is the perfect plant if you want to add some wow factor to your garden.

This ornamental beauty won the country over after it was introduced to the market by plant gurus Native Plant Wholesalers in South Australia. It’s remained Australia’s best-selling Acacia cognata variety ever since. Limelight is compact and dense and great for both modern and traditional gardens.

3. Coastal tea tree

Coastal tea tree (Leptospermum laevigatum) can really be considered the native answer to low hedging and is a fantastic alternative to the traditional English Box hedge. With outstanding resilience to the harshest of coastal conditions, the coastal tea tree tolerates salt sprays and salt-laden winds. It has great grey-green foliage and bronze-coloured new growth.

This plant is a great solution for coastal areas, poolside gardens and narrow spaces.

4. Grevillea ‘Fire Cracker’

If you’re after flowers during winter to add a dash of interest, there are some great low-growing natives available. Grevillea ‘Fire Cracker’ has a compact, rounded habit with small evergreen leaves.

Firecracker boasts an extensive flowering period, typically coming into bloom in late April through until October. The explosion of fiery red and yellow flowers makes a stunning show over a long period.

5. Grevillea ‘Deua Gold’

‘Deua Gold’ is another bright beauty worth adding to your garden. Its rich gold flowers adorn the plant for most of the year, but it really peaks over the winter months.

Named for its origins near the Deua National Park in New South Wales, ‘Deua Gold’ is a superb performer in tough landscape conditions.

6. Heath-leaved banksia

Arguably the most beautiful variety, heath-leaved banksia (Banksia ericifolia) flowers in autumn and winter with a striking bright orange-red colour and long lantern shape.

Heathery foliage is frost and salt-spray tolerant, growing in Central and Northern New South Wales, east of the Great Dividing Range. Along with having large flower heads, the heath-leaved banksia can also grow to around six metres tall, adding height and texture to your garden.

7. Silver princess eucalyptus

If you want to add a point of drama to your garden, silver princess eucalyptus (Eucalyptus caesia) is a fantastic medium-sized evergreen tree perfectly suited to the task. The shimmering foliage and weeping habit make it a striking addition to any garden. Dramatic pink-red blooms appear from May and last through to September, and will attract native birds and beneficial insects to the garden.

The tree, which can grow up to six metres in height, is also drought-tolerant and frost-resistant, making it ideal for low-maintenance gardens.

Can you plant Australian natives in winter?

Yes, you can plant your natives in winter. According to Australian Native Nursery, planting natives is best done in the cooler months, from autumn through to early spring, thanks to milder conditions and higher rainfall. Being mostly evergreen plants, natives will continue to grow throughout the seasons, and can even be planted in summer provided you water them regularly.

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There are so many different varieties of pumpkin grown all over Australia, but you’ll only see a small portion of these represented on supermarket shelves. Whether you’re looking to grow your own or pick up a popular variety from the supermarket, there are usually options year-round. Here are 5 of the most common pumpkin varieties available in Australia, how to grow them, plus tips on how to use each variety in everything from salads, to scones and more!

For more pumpkin facts, check out our guide to prepping, cooking and storing in-season pumpkins.

If you want to transform pumpkin from a side-kick into a main meal, try these recipes:

• How to make butternut pumpkin fruitcake
• How to make pumpkin scones

Pumpkin recipes

Which month is the best to plant pumpkin?

Pumpkins are not lovers of cold weather or frost — so the best time of year to plant them is in December. You can purchase seeds, or attempt to use the seeds within a store-bought pumpkin. Many people have ended up with an accidental pumpkin plant this way!

What are the best conditions for growing pumpkins?

Pumpkin plants enjoy full sun, so select a non-shady spot with well-drained soil that is at least 1 metre square to allow the vines to grow outward.

Water reguarly when you notice dry soil or conditions, and mulch to help retain moisture. Harvest your pumpkins when they’re ripe. You can test your pumpkin’s readiness by tapping: a ripe pumpkin will make a hollow sound, and the stalk also should have withered and turned brown.

What is the best pumpkin for roasting in Australia?

Butternut pumpkin (called butternut squash in the US) tends to be the top choice when it comes to roasting. Butternut pumpkin has dense, slightly sweet flesh and is by far one of the most versatile varieties in the kitchen.

What is the benefit of eating pumpkin?

As well as tasting great, pumpkins are highly nutritious — they’re packed with proteins, good carbohydrates, carotenoids, antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. According to a medically reviewed article published on WebMD, the benefits of including pumpkin in your diet are huge; it’s great for your skin, is high in fibre, can improve both eye, gut and heart health, and supports your immune system.

The 5 most common pumpkin varieties in Australia

Golden Nugget pumpkin

This pumpkin variety is probably the best bet for a small yard or balcony garden: unlike its cousins, it is small fruiting and compact, making it perfect for a large tub. Particularly delicious when roasted, these pumpkins are also great for stuffing.

Jap or Kent pumpkin

Short for Japanese pumpkin, it also goes by ‘Kent’. This delicious member of the pumpkin family has been described as the ‘foodie’s pumpkin’ and for good reason: it has wonderful flavour and is very versatile. It has ribbed, grey-green mottled skin and is best suited to grow in warm or tropical climates.

Queensland Blue pumpkin

Flying the flag for Australia, the Queensland Blue pumpkin is home-bred-and-born but popular throughout the world. Besides its characteristic blue-grey and deeply ribbed skin, it’s perhaps best known for its amazing keeping time – 100 to 140 days. Pureed Queensland pumpkins are perfect for pumpkin scones.

Turk’s Turban pumpkin

This interesting-looking specimen is an heirloom variety grown more for aesthetics than dinner table glory, but still it is great roasted or made into soup.

Butternut pumpkin

One of the best-known pumpkin varieties for its shape, quick growing time and versatility. It marries well with strong flavours like blue cheese or spices like cumin and grows well all across most of Australia. Butternut pumpkin is also great for sweet dishes, like pumpkin fruitcake and pumpkin pie.

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The citrus gall wasp is an insect native to some regions in Queensland and NSW, where it produces lumpy galls around developing larvae on the branches of citrus trees, These galls affect the fruit size, weaken the tree and causes branches to die. It is mainly found on grapefruit branches, but can also strike lemons, oranges and limes.

This native pest is of increasing concern to gardeners, as it’s becoming more common. Once only found along the east coast of Australia, and only in the Australian finger lime, it has now spread to gardens in Melbourne and other parts of Victoria and adapted to other citrus varieties.

How to tell if you have citrus gall wasps?

You will rarely see a citrus gall wasp, but if the stems or twigs of your backyard citrus are looking engorged and lumpy, your plants could be harbouring this pest.

What damage do gall wasps do?

Citrus gall wasps burrow into the branches on citrus trees and form lumps on the stem, known as galls, as the larvae burrow into twigs to feed. The larvae hatch from eggs laid just under the surface of the bark on new spring growth. After hatching, larvae burrow further into the bark to begin feeding, triggering the twigs they are in to form the telltale galls.

The insects remain in the galls after feeding and pupating over winter. At the end of winter or in early spring adult wasps emerge to mate and lay more eggs so the life cycle starts all over again.

Small holes in galls are a sign the wasp has emerged from its winter home. If the galls are intact and have no holes, the pupating wasp is still inside.

The damage is not fatal but it’s certainly ugly, and severe infestations can lead to dieback and loss of production. A severely infested tree can have hundreds of galls and each gall harbours many insects.

What plants are susceptible to citrus gall wasps?

Grapefruit trees are particularly susceptible to citrus gall wasps but they are also found on lemon, orange and native lime. It is less likely to attack mandarins.

How do you get rid of gall wasps?

The best method of treatment for removing galls is to cut the branch in question off the tree before the wasp emerges. As the larvae are within plant tissue, it is very hard to control them using chemicals. Indeed the main control method is to cut off the galls before the wasp emerges, which should then be placed into a bag, sealed and put into the rubbish.

Reducing the number of adult wasps in your garden not only makes it a more pleasant place to be, it will also reduce next season’s infestation.

It’s also important to feed, water and mulch your citrus, and keep it free of weeds.

How to care for citrus trees

As well as combating citrus gall wasps by removing galls, it is important to keep citrus trees well nourished. Feed them with citrus food, remove weeds and lawn from around the tree and then water the ground well.

To reduce weeds and to keep the soil moist, cover the area with a 5cm layer of organic mulch, compost or aged manure (or a mix of all three). Don’t allow the mulch to build up around the trunk.

It is important to water citrus trees regularly, particularly while they are flowering and forming their fruit. Deeply watering trees once a week in spring and summer ensures a good crop.

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If your frangipani tree is affected, it’s likely you’ll notice it during the summer months, after cycles of heavy rainfall and hot temperatures.

Here’s a quick run-down of what frangipani rust is, how to identify it, and what you can do to prevent and treat it.

What is frangipani rust?

Frangipani rust is a plant disease that originated in Central and South America. It has spread through eastern Australia, from Queensland to central New South Wales, and is moving south.

The disease forms powdery, yellow-orange pustules on the underside of the frangipani leaves which reduces the plant’s ability to photosynthesise.

While the disease is unlikely to kill the tree, it will eventually cause defoliation (especially in younger trees) from its inability to photosynthesise.

How to identify frangipani rust

On the upper surface of infected leaves, chlorotic spots or lesions form which can reduce the area of the leaf that’s able to photosynthesise. If you run your finger along the underside of an affected leaf, your finger will turn reddish-brown. The pustules may spread to cover the leaf surface which, in severe cases, can cause defoliation.

The disease is at its worst during warm and humid weather. Young leaves tend to be more resistant as their higher latex content inhibits the spore germination. The disease is unlikely to kill trees even if defoliated. New leaves will sprout next season.

Can frangipani rust spread to other plants?

Frangipani rust is an airborne disease where the spores can travel many kilometres with a strong breeze or just to nearby plants. It can even reinfect the original plant.

How to get rid of frangipani rust

Unfortunately, there is no miraculous treatment that will get rid of frangipani rust. No sprays are registered against it in Australia. While the disease may look unsightly, if your tree has already matured, you may want to consider just leaving it as is and focus instead on managing the spread of the disease.

• Remove infected leaves as soon as you spot them but, to avoid spores dropping onto healthy leaves, try not to shake them as you do so
• Do not compost infected leaves or touch healthy leaves after handling infected ones
• No products are registered specifically against frangipani rust but myclobutanil and copper are registered for rust in ornamentals

How to prevent frangipani rust

• Check the leaves on plants for pustules when buying.
• Prevent the disease spreading through your garden by practising good garden hygiene. Rake up fallen leaves during winter
• Don’t wet leaves when watering if pustules are present on leaves
• Some varieties of frangipani are more susceptible than others. Ask your local nursery for advice.

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From lemons and limes to oranges and mandarins, here’s everything you need to know about growing happy and healthy citrus trees in pots.

Which citrus varieties grow in pots?

Lots a’ Lemons and Dwarf Eureka, both lemons, are two popular citrus varieties that grow in pots. For a small lime try Dwarf Tahitian or one of the Australian native limes, like the finger lime, also known as the ‘caviar of citrus’.

Citrus splitzers are multi-grafted citrus that provide the best of both worlds, bearing both lime and lemons (and other combinations) on one plant and are ideal for large pots. Mandarins, cumquats and calamondins also make good potted plants.

How to grow citrus trees in pots

Select a large pot to grow your citrus tree and put the pot into its final position before you begin to fill it with potting mix. A happy citrus tree home will be a pot with several large drainage holes in the bottom that is elevated slightly off the ground. This can be easily achieved by raising the pot on pot feet or bricks.

Once you’ve selected the right pot, don’t skimp on potting mix. Buy a good quality mix that meets the Australian standard (look for ticks of approval on the bag) and make sure you have enough to fill the pot to within about 4cm of the rim to allow space for watering. For a large pot — one that’s over 40cm in diameter — you’ll need several bags.

Modern potting mixes provide good drainage, but for a plant that’s going to be in a large pot for a long time, it is best to add about 10 per cent soil to the potting mix, combining it well. This prevents the mix from slumping — that is, diminishing in the pot — so the plant is sitting well below the top of the pot. Water the plant in well, firming it into the potting mix.

How to care for potted citrus trees

It’s little wonder citrus trees are a popular choice for home gardens big and small, but while they are famously known for being easy to grow, giving your citrus regular care and attention goes a long way. Here’s what you need to know to get the most from your potted citrus.

How much sun do potted citrus trees need?

Citrus need full sun, something we fortunately have an abundance of in Australia. This means placing them in the sunniest part of your garden or balcony, especially during winter when they fruit. While citrus trees are happiest in warm, sunny conditions, there are some varieties that are more cold-tolerant such as the Meyer lemon and Satsuma mandarin.

How often should you water potted citrus trees?

Potted citrus need to be watered two to three times a week. In very hot or windy weather, particularly when your tree is in flower or forming small fruit, it may need deep daily watering. Always make sure the water soaks into the potting mix and doesn’t simply run through without soaking in.

Citrus trees also need to be well nourished. The best way to provide all the nutrients they need is to use a complete citrus food. This should be applied in small amounts once a month from August to mid-autumn. Water the pot well when applying any fertiliser.

How long does it take for a potted citrus tree to fruit?

Generally, citrus trees take around three years to begin bearing fruit, provided they have adequate sunlight and good drainage. Like any gardening endeavour, patience is key. Once your citrus tree begins flowering, know that fruit should be on the horizon, and once your citrus tree starts exploding with fruit, it will likely continue for decades to come.

Common potted citrus pests

To avoid pest problems, regularly spray new growth with horticultural spray oil such as PestOil. This treatment controls pesky citrus leafminer and aphids along with sap suckers like spined citrus bugs.

Shop the best pots and planters for citrus trees

01

Ryker Stonelite round planter

$274, Temple & Webster

Designed to endure harsh weather conditions, this white planter provides a sturdy and chic home for your citrus tree. At 53cm in height, width and depth, this minimalist pot is also a great size for dwarf citrus plants.

Key features:

• Crafted from 100% polyethylene
• Ridged design adds dimension and texture
• 30-day return policy

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02

Northcote Kriti extra large terracotta pot

$35.18, Bunnings

Add a touch of Mediterranean charm with this extra-large terracotta pot from Bunnings. Not only are terracotta pots timeless and rustic, but they are also naturally porous, reducing the risk of root rot.

Key features:

• Drainage hole
• Porous clay construction increases drainage
• Classic design and rustic charm

Shop now

03

Freedom Avutto large planter in grey

$199, Freedom

Made from a blend of stone, powder stone, plastic and fibreglass, the Avutto garden planter is built to withstand the elements and look chic doing it. Thanks to its large size and bowl-shaped silhouette, the Avutto will make a spacious home for your new citrus plant.

Key features:

• Made from a durable blend of stone, power stone, plastic and fibreglass
• Chic grey design
• Wide bowl shape provides plenty of room for growth

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04

Northcote Green studded pot

$99.98, Bunnings

If you’re after a glazed look, this gorgeous green pot ticks all the boxes. Not only does it offer an eye-catching shiny look, but a glazed pot like this one offers reduced water loss (a tick so long as you have drainage holes) and plenty of support to the weight of a mature citrus tree.

Key features:

• Handcrafted glaze finish
• Drainage holes
• Gorgeous green shade and studded detail

Shop Now

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“Ground covers are often overlooked, but they play an essential role in any garden design,” says Ruth Czermak, principal landscape architect at Botanical Traditions.

Here, we ask four leading landscape designers for their advice and insights on all things relating to ground covers.

What are ground cover plants?

Ground covers are plants that are less than about 30cm tall. They can be annuals, trailing climbers, herbaceous perennials, strappy-leafed plants, ferns, grasses, flowering, and even edible plants.

Most popular ground cover plants

“Myoporum parvifolium (creeping boobialla) is a reliable ground cover plant suitable for most types of garden,” says Linda Green, principal at Hidcote Landscapes.

“In a tropical-style garden, where it might receive quite a lot of water, it forms a lush, green carpet, but when used in a native garden, it toughens up and hugs the ground. It has small, white flowers and contrasts with more colourful ground covers like Scaevola (fan flower).”

“Trachelospermum asiaticum (Japanese star jasmine) is a reliable, flowering ground cover for most gardens,” says Joanne Green, landscape designer at Joanne Green Landscape.

“Its flowers are yellowish-white and fragrant. It’s non-invasive and handles a range of light levels, which is convenient.”

Shade-loving ground cover plants Australia

Creating lush gardens in shaded areas can be a challenge, however there are plenty of ground covers that are suitable for shady areas. From the hardy shade-loving Ajuga, or bugle, with its crinkled purple and blue flowers, to resilient Liriope, with its green strappy leaves, there’s a ground cover for every type of garden, no matter the level of sun exposure.

Sun-loving ground cover plants for dry areas

“A fantastic ground cover in all but the hottest and driest areas is Viola hederacea (native violet). It can be variable, growing to about 10cm tall in lightly shaded, moist areas, but is far more ground-hugging in hotter, dryer areas,” says Ruth Czermak.

“A good groundcover for dry, sunny areas is Chrysocephalum apiculatum (yellow buttons). This has grey/silver leaves and masses of bright yellow flowers for about nine months of the year.”

“If you have a difficult sloping garden and are looking for a mounding ground cover to cover it in a short period of time then Hardenbergia violacea ‘Mini Haha’, and ‘Meema’ are two good choices, although they can be short lived,” says Ruth Czermak.

“For an intense splash of colour the Anigozanthos flavidus (yellow kangaroo paw) hybrids are tough, reliable and spectacular where they will not get water-logged. They look great against stonework or Corten steel.”

Ground cover plants for subtropical and tropical climates

Subtropical and tropical climates are blessed with a much greater biodiversity in plants than the southern states. For ground covers Arno King, director at Arno King Landscape Architects, recommends:

• Summer love (Acalypha chamaedrifolia), a deep-green plant covered with red catkins.
• Creeping gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides ‘Radicans’), with deep green leaves and white, waxy, perfumed flowers.
• Storm lily (Zephyranthes candida), a small bulb covered with white crocus-like flowers throughout the wet months.
• Temple grass(Zoysia tenuifolia), an undulating mossy grass.

Best spreading perennials ground cover plants

The best ground cover plants are the ones that spread by themselves, naturally increasing their coverage area over the ground every year. They spread by various means: via underground stolons (like grass); by roots forming along their stems as they grow; or by simply growing bigger. You can often split off sections of them and move them to other areas of your garden, giving you lots of new plants for free.

In cool and temperate regions, campanula, geranium, heuchera and tiarella are great choices. They all form dense mounds of leaves.

Sutera (Sutera cordata) is a creeping perennial with bright green leaves and white flowers all year in warm climates. Snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum), which has silver woolly leaves and white flowers in spring and early summer, is another favourite.

One of the most popular silver-leaved perennials is Lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina). It works well as a low border or ornamental ground cover.

Running postman (Kennedia prostrata) is also drought tolerant, and creeps across the ground, forming a mat up to 2m wide. It grows in well-drained soils in full sun or semi-shade.

Best low maintenance ground cover Australia

When it comes to Australian climates, there are a number of ground cover plants are suitable suitable for Australian landscapes. Of note, Myoporum parvifolium (Creeping Boobialla) is often praised for being relatively low-maintenance, drought-tolerant, fast-growing and adaptable to different conditions. Trachelospermum asiaticum (Japanese Star Jasmine) is another low-maintenance option, while benefitting from twice-yearly feeds and regular watering, they are able to adapt to various growing conditions with minimal care. In shaded areas, Viola hederacea (Native Violet) is a low maintenance ground cover that benefits from little care, and in dry, sunny areas, Chrysocephalum apiculatum (Yellow Buttons) emerge as a top contender.

Best climbing ground cover plants

Many climbing plants can serve as ground covers. The thing to watch for with climbers is that they will start heading up anything they come across. Keep them in check by regularly clipping off any wandering tendrils looking to climb.

Several cultivars that stay low-growing and spreading, such as ‘Flat White’, ‘Carpet Royale’ and ‘Meema’, have been released over the past couple of years. Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is another goodie, with its highly scented white flowers on show from October to December.

The kangaroo vine (Cissus antarctica) is an excellent choice to cover large areas of shade beneath trees. This native climber has bright green, heart-shaped leaves and attractive bronze new growth. It prefers moist soil that’s had lots of organic matter incorporated into it.

Best small shrub ground cover plants

There are many low-growing shrubs that do a great job of covering the soil. Gardenia radicans is a smaller version of the much-loved florist’s gardenia, but it still has the deliciously scented white flowers.

Evolvulus (Evolvulus glomeratus) thrives in well-drained soil in full sun. It forms a dense mound of slightly furry leaves, and its brilliant blue flowers appear from spring to autumn.

Coral plant (Russelia equisetiformis) is one plant that should be used more. It has arching, weeping stems with masses of red, tubular flowers all year round. It’s a brilliant choice for spilling over a wall or bank.

There is a huge choice of low-growing native shrubs to choose from. There are a few prostrate grevilleas available, including ‘Fire Cracker’, a new cultivar that has soft leaves instead of spiky ones. It’s also hard to go past old favourites ‘Bronze Rambler’ and ‘Poorinda Royal Mantle’, which can form dense mats up to 4m across.

Also keep an eye out for ‘Mundi’, which is a new cultivar of Westringia fruticosa. It has all the usual toughness of a westringia but it naturally grows to no more than knee height and spreads about 1.5m wide.

How to grow ground cover plants

A little preparation will result in healthier, faster-growing ground cover plants and less weeding work in the long term. Here’s a quick guide:

• Eliminate weeds first, by hand digging or spot spraying with a weedkiller. Then turn over the soil, water it and wait for the next crop to emerge, as most weeds need more than one go.
• For persistent weeds such as onion weed and oxalis, lay thick sheets of newspaper over soil after planting and before mulching.
• Mulch around plants to cover bare soil until they spread.
• Improve the soil by adding compost, manures, worm castings or other organic matter, plus some slow-release, organic-based fertiliser. For sandy soils, add a soil wetting agent.

What is the most hardy ground cover plant?

Some of the most hardy ground cover plants you can plant include Myoporum parvifolium (Creeping Boobialla) and Stachys byzantina (Lamb’s Ear) are a particularly fast-growing, hardy ground cover plants offer resilience and adaptability to different environmental conditions and thrives in both sun, shade and and poor soil. Drought tolerant and fast growing, these are a tolerant options for more touch-and-go areas of the garden. 

What are the disadvantages of ground cover plants?

Ground cover plants have many advantages, but before you plant them in your garden it is important to note that there can be some downsides to consider first. Ground covers, by nature, can spread quickly and can easily get out of control. When this happens, there is a chance that they’ll invade nearby garden beds and can even choke other plants in some cases. They can also compete with nearby plants, taking nutrients and water from the soil.

This also means often they require quite a lot of maintenance to keep them under control — whether that be consistent pruning, trimming or thinning. But this is not always the case, and for the most part, ground cover plants make for a beautiful addition to your garden.

The post A guide to ground cover plants: The best varieties for sun and shade appeared first on Homes To Love.

“The cooler months are the perfect time to create those home cooked hearty meals which can be jam packed with flavour from winter veggies. Autumn is also a great time to get into the garden for a bit of DIY for those looking to have vegie patches full of delicious produce right through winter,” Narelle Peart from Scotts Osmocote told Homes to Love.

If you’re looking to get your garden prepped with the best vegetables to plant in winter in Australia, Narelle has shared her winter veggies to grow during the cooler seasons.

The best winter vegetables to grow in Australia

Carrots

Grown all year round, carrots can withstand a large variety of temperatures. However, these vegies go great in those winter broths and soups. To ensure you get the best out of your carrots, make sure that your soil doesn’t dry out – water regularly and keep the soil moist for the first two weeks of germination. Try using a specialised vegetable potting mix to make your new carrots healthier, stronger and more resistant to disease.

Broccoli

This well-loved winter vegetable is the perfect healthy addition to those warm potato bakes, mac and cheese or casserole dishes. Broccoli loves to grow in a nice sunny spot, so make sure you position your growing produce where they will receive some rays of sunshine. Remember to give your vegies a good drink of water and keep the soil most, for optimum results invest in a quality potting mix with the Australian Standard Red tick, which ensures that the mix is manufactured to comply with premium Australian standards.

Garlic

Regardless of the cuisine, garlic will add that bit of extra flavour to any meal. Quite often, garlic is a staple in many Aussie kitchens and is a great addition to home cooked roasts or marinades. A great tip for growing garlic is to not water your soil until your cloves have germinated, which will occur approximately two weeks after planting. Following this, ensure you water the soil often enough so that it remains moist but not wet.

Spinach

Spinach is a fantastic source of iron, vitamins and other minerals and goes great in meals such as stir fry, cannelloni and stew. Don’t forget to water your growing spinach regularly and feed once seedlings begin to emerge with a plant food and soil improver that feeds your crops above and below the ground by creating a balanced and sustainable growing environment for bigger, healthier crops. Depending on the type of spinach variety you’re growing, it should be ready to enjoy in six to eight weeks.

Snow Peas

High in protein, resilient and a quick tasty snack, snow peas are an excellent addition to any winter menu. Plus, they thrive in the cooler months and will fit right in with your winter vegetable patch. Remember they love to climb, so a pole in the soil for them to grow up will do wonders, and don’t forget to water the ground around them, not their leaves, as they are especially prone to mildew.

Thyme

Sometimes meals just need that little extra hint of flavour which is why thyme is a great staple to have in the kitchen. During the cooler months especially, we see more people cooking pastas and soups which can always do with some extra herbs. Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil when you are beginning to plant your thyme, water well and enrich soil with a specialised herb controlled release plant food. Once this herb has sprouted, don’t forget to harvest regularly for added growth.

Vegetables to grow in winter in Australia

Hardy vegetables like leafy greens and root vegetables are the best vegies to grow during winter. They can happily tolerate the lower sunlight and don’t mind the cooler soil. Cruciferous vegetables like broccoli are a failsafe when it comes to winter growing, along with other non-cruciferous options like carrot and spinach.

The post Master your garden year-round with these vegetables to grow in winter appeared first on Homes To Love.

Yellow is the colour that springs to mind when we think of daffodils but there are varieties with white, cream, orange and pink petals and trumpets (the central corona), as well as doubles and miniature types. All have beautiful perfume. Early-, mid- and late-season types spread the flowering period from June to October. In cool climates they’ll ‘naturalise’: multiply by themselves when left in the ground.

How to plant daffodil bulbs

• Feed: Fertilise lightly with a bulb fertiliser when planting and also after flowering.
• Design: Daffodils look best when they are planted in clumps rather than in rows. The larger the clump, the better the effect. Planting them in groups of the same colour will create a pretty swathe of colour.
• Pests: To keep snails and slugs at bay it is a good idea to use a little snail bait or beer traps regularly during growing season.
• Store: Daffodils can remain undisturbed for many years. But, if digging is preferred, wait until the leaves have died right down and store in a cool, dry, ventilated place.
• Water: Natural rainfall should suffice. Keep daffodil bulbs moist during dry spells in autumn and late spring.

If blooming does not happen one season, it is best to move daffodil bulbs to a new location.

Top Tip!

When to plant daffodil bulbs in Australia

The best time to plant daffodil bulbs is during autumn, where they can lay dormant in the ground during the cooler season and resurface in spring. Cooler regions like Melbourne and other southern regions should plant daffodil bulbs at the beginning of autumn in March and April, whereas warmer regions like Brisbane can wait until May.

Do daffodil bulbs need to be chilled?

A common misconception, daffodil bulbs do not need to be chilled before they will bloom. All they require is to be planted in the lead up to winter where they will be able to naturally chill in the cool soil. When spring comes, you will be rewarded with a bounty of daffodil flowers, without any fuss.

Do daffodils grow in Australia?

Yes, daffodils grow well in Australia. Depending on your region’s climate, daffodils tend to flower from bulbs in late winter and early spring.

In warm climates, plant daffodil bulbs at double the recommended depth.

Top Tip!

See more how to grow

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Citrus trees are some of the easiest fruit trees to grow in Australian gardens. Their popularity is deserved — they are ornamental yet productive, have handsome, shiny green leaves and fragrant flowers. Not to mention they add wonderful flavours and zing to your cooking.

Equipped with these growing tips and everything you need to know about citrus tree care, whether in pots or in the ground, you’ll be harvesting box loads of fruit in no time at all.

Where to position citrus trees in your garden for the most fruit

Citrus plants love sunshine — and need a required five hours a day for maximum fruiting. In order to achieve this, planting them in a north-facing, warm and sunny position is best. In cooler climates, grow them alongside a sunny wall, where radiated heat will warm them. Alternatively, bring pots inside during winter.

Citrus plants like water, but any water must drain away quickly and not pool in the root zone. To prevent this, before planting, dig a hole in a potential planting spot and fill with water. If it takes more than 30 minutes to drain, the drainage is inadequate. Mound the soil or choose another spot.

When to feed citrus trees

Citrus trees have shallow feeder roots that need protection with mulching (the mulch shouldn’t touch the trunk) and feeding with citrus food and organic pellets throughout each season. Mature trees need two kilograms each of fertiliser and citrus food applied to the drip line each season.

Start young trees off with 200 grams of food and build up the amount as they grow. When grown as a garden tree, your citrus should be trained into four main branches. Open up the centre of the plant to increase airflow, and cut back shoots to a few buds after fruiting. Prune the young shoots to create bushiness.

Choose a citrus grafted onto a rootstock suitable for your local environment and soil type. Trifoliata rootstock creates a dwarf tree, which is cold-tolerant and resistant to collar rot, so it’s ideal for heavy soils and cool areas. Citrange rootstock makes a faster-growing, taller tree, intolerant of poor drainage, so it’s ideal for coastal areas.

• Five hours of sunshine a day is needed for maximum fruiting.
• Citrus likes water but only if it drains quickly. Infrequent, deep watering is best.
• In cold climates, plant the tree in spring, when the soil has warmed up. In warm areas, trees can also be planted in autumn.
• Citrus trees don’t need pruning to fruit well.

How to produce the most fruit from citrus trees

Growing citrus in small spaces

Do you want to grow citrus but don’t have the room for big trees? One solution is to train your citrus flat against a warm, north-facing fence, a technique known as espalier.

Plant them at 1.2–1.5-metre intervals, about 30cm from the fence. Tie the stems to horizontal wires along the fence and place the wires about 20cm apart. This way the trees don’t encroach on the garden, but provide an evergreen screen to hide the fence.

How to grow lots of fruit on potted citrus trees

Everyone with a spot of sun can[grow citrus in a pot, but be aware they need constant care, feeding and watering to produce a healthy crop. Half wine barrels (or pots of a similar size) and quality potting mix are needed. Choose a citrus grafted to Flying Dragon — a dwarfing rootstock that limits the growth of the tree, but not the fruit, and is ideal for pots.

Potted citrus needs root pruning at least every three years. This entails pulling the tree out of its pot, cutting 5cm off the roots all around the root ball with a bread knife and replanting into the same pot with some fresh potting mix and citrus food. This will make a significant difference to the number of fruit you will get the following season.

When do lemon trees fruit in Australia?

While lemon trees generally bear fruit in Australia between late autumn and winter, in regions with mild weather, lemon trees can continue to produce multiple fruits throughout the year.

Can you have too many lemons on a tree?

Whether it is worth removing some fruit from your flowering citrus tree is actually a commonly asked question. While it may seem counterproductive for those wishing to bear plenty of fruit, if a tree — or its branches — can no longer support the amount of fruit it has produced, you can end up coming away with nothing.

Similarly, just as is often the case with oversized vegetables, there is a correlation between quantity and quality when it comes to citrus fruit. Overcrowded fruit can often be smaller in size and less tasty.

In order to avoid this, it is best to remove some of the fruit, leaving behind the pieces closest to the thickest part of the branch.

What is the best fertiliser for citrus trees

Sunshine, quick-draining soil, airflow, infrequent deep watering and seasonal feeding, in addition to the right fertiliser are the keys to citrus success. In cold climates, plant the tree in spring, when the soil has warmed up. In warm areas, trees can also be planted in autumn. The best fertiliser for citrus trees include well-rotted cow manures, potash, blood and bone or a handful of garden lime each year. Planting on mounded soil will prevent drainage problems, collar rot and fungal diseases.

The best citrus fertilizer in Australia in 2024

01

Scotts Osmocote Organic Plus Fruit and Citrus 800g

from $13.46 at Amazon

Best for: organic fruit

This plant food and soil improver has been formulated to boost flowering and fruiting of all citrus trees including lemon, lime, mandarin and oranges. It consists of blends of organic fertiliser and Osmocote that conditions the soil for up to 6 months.

Key features:

• Specifically designed for fruit and citrus
• Feeds for 6 months
• Promotes production of large, juicy fruit

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02

Brunnings Organic Blood & Bone Based Fertiliser 2.5kg

from $14 at Woolworths

Best for: slow release nutrients

Brunnings Blood & Bone based fertiliser is a traditional organic fertiliser that releases its nutrients slowly into the soil. This is a suitable choice for citrus plants as the nitrogen and phosphorus formula will encourage healthy growth.

Key features:

• 2.5kg bag
• Suitable for all types of plants
• Can be applied very six weeks for best results

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03

Charlie Carp All Purpose Fertiliser 1L

from $10.86 at Amazon

Best for: liquid fertiliser

Suitable for veggies, orchids, roses and of course, citrus trees, the Charlie Carp liquid fertiliser is a natural solution made from the invasive introduced species of European Carp. It provides a quick and simple boost of nutrients and oils to give your citrus the boost it needs.

Key features:

• Ready-to-use liquid fertiliser
• Rich in protein, Omega 3 oils, nutrients and trace elements
• Proudly Australian made
• Makes 300L

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04

Brunnings Organic Fruit & Citrus Food 2.5kg

from $14 at Woolworths

Best for: abundant fruit-set on trees

The Brunnings formula combines organic nutrients with fertilisers to produce healthy juicy fruit in citrus plants. It is ready to use and simple to sprinkle on a wide variety of citrus and fruits, that continues to release nutrients for months.

Key features:

• 2.5kg bag
• Organic and fast acting nutrients including Potassium.
• Helps to produces large juicy fruit

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How to grow citrus trees in pots

What to consider when choosing a citrus tree

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The post How to grow citrus trees that are bursting with fruit appeared first on Homes To Love.

So how do you achieve the perfect tree that’s glossy green, covered in perfumed white flowers each spring and laden with fruit in winter?

Here’s everything you need to know about how to grow citrus trees.

Where to plant citrus trees?

If you have full sun and good drainage, then you can grow citrus trees in any temperate part of Australia. In really cold areas such as Tasmania, the Snowy Mountains, and NSW Central Tablelands and New England regions, you may need to keep them in pots and bring them into a sheltered position in winter. Avoid exposing them to strong salt-laden winds too, as this will affect the ability of the citrus tree to grow lots of fruit from the blossom.

When should you plant citrus trees?

Plant citrus in autumn and spring, avoiding the heat of summer.

What is the best soil for citrus trees?

Dig the hole for your tree twice as wide as it is deep. Water-storing crystals can then be added. Remove the plant from its bag or pot and gently tease out the roots so they are orientated out in all directions. Cut off any that have started to spiral and are root-bound, as this will severely affect the growth of your tree. Place in the hole and backfill with soil.

Be careful not to bury the tree too deep, and don’t cover over the graft, as this can result in collar rot. The soil surrounding the tree should be level with the surrounding ground. Pat down soil gently with your foot to create a slightly firmer, lower well around the tree. This will help the water stay long enough to penetrate into the root zone before it runs off the surface.

Finally, water it really well, with at least two full 9L watering cans (if not more), to help get rid of any air pockets. Then mulch to a depth of about 10cm, being careful not to build up around the trunk. Continue watering every week (more on windy or very sunny days), until your citrus is through its first year. After this, watering every three weeks should be fine (if it hasn’t rained).

How to plant citrus in pots

If you want to grow your new citrus tree in a pot, use a quality premium standard mix and make sure the pot is at least 400mm wide and 400mm deep. An alternative to the traditional tree shape is to espalier the tree flat against a wall. Buy it like this or do it yourself by simply pruning off any outward growing branches.

How to care for citrus trees

• Citrus trees need regular watering and applications of fertiliser to do well.
• Air pollution can be another reason your tree isn’t fruiting, as young buds don’t like smog, so if the air quality is bad during this time, your citrus crop can suffer as a result.

• If your citrus is not fruiting, it’s probably due to a lack of sun or food. Citrus trees are known as gross feeders, meaning that they need regular applications of fertiliser.

How to manage pests on citrus trees

Citrus are prone to a few pests and diseases, so be vigilant. Look out for citrus leafminer, which causes distortion in the new growth. It can only be sprayed with an oil spray (white oil and pest oil) during the growing season, from late spring through to autumn – the spray makes the leaf surface slippery and undesirable. The spray is a natural pest control method and also deters aphids (which attack new growth), bronze orange bug (also known as stink bugs) and scale insects.

What is the best fertiliser for citrus trees

It’s recommended to fertilise with blood and bone, potash and well-rotted animal manures every three to four months, or a handful of garden lime each year.

• Eureka: Of all the lemon trees, Eureka is one of the best for the backyard. It crops all year so you can almost always find a fruit on the tree. It does best in warm areas.
• Meyer: The most cold-tolerant lemon tree, the Meyer produces quite sweet (low acid) orange-coloured lemons throughout the year. The best variety for pots.
• Lisbon: The Lisbon is a bitter lemon with high acid and lots of juice. The tree tends to have two main crops: a heavy one in autumn/winter and a light one in spring.
• Tahitian and West Indian lime: The top two limes are Tahitian and West Indian, with the latter having the most limey flavour. They love the tropics and subtropics and suffer in the cold.
• Desert lime: The fruit of the Australian native desert lime is narrow and finger-like with a green or flushed red colour. When cut, the juice cells fall out like fish roe.
• Kaffir lime: Kaffir lime is very popular for its fragrant leaves that are widely used in Asian cooking. The fruit, however, is wrinkled and has little juice.

Best types of citrus to grow in Australia

The post How to grow citrus trees and inject some zest into your garden appeared first on Homes To Love.

Here are the main reasons lemon trees develop yellow leaves and, most importantly, how to get them back to green and lush for a fruitful harvest.

Reasons your lemon tree leaves are turning yellow

Decoding what your plant is trying to tell you can be tricky, but if you address these common causes, you should be able to get your lemon tree back on track. And while older leaves may not return to green after applying these remedies, the yellow leaves should fall and allow for new green leaves in their place.

1. Not enough fertiliser

Lemons burn through lots of nutrients. When the tree runs out of nutrients its older leaves may become yellow. Applying a complete citrus food twice a year, aiming for mid-summer and late winter, should help your lemon tree get the growing power it needs.

Water well before and after applying fertiliser. Spread the fertiliser over the soil around the tree. Follow the application rates suggested on the container. The best way to provide all the nutrients citrus trees need is to use a complete citrus food.

2. Not enough iron

A lack of iron can also cause lemon tree leaves to yellow. As a quick fix, water the tree with iron chelates, a form of soluble iron available from most garden centres and hardware stores.

3. Not enough water

Lemon trees need regular and deep watering that reaches the root system. When plants dry out they don’t get enough nutrients. Lack of water can be a major problem for containerised trees.

After watering, check that the water has soaked into the soil and not simply drained away leaving the roots dry. If the soil below the surface is still dry, apply a soil wetting agent to encourage the soil or potting mix to better absorb water, and then water again.

Citrus tolerate a range of soil types, but thrive in light soils with good drainage. The ideal pH level should sit between 6.0 and 7.0. Unfortunately, this type of soil is hard to find naturally in Australia, so a bag of loamy or sandy loam soil will go a long way in helping your citrus grow.

What is the best soil for citrus trees?

4. Common lemon tree pests

Citrus bugs, scale and aphids can affect the health of the lemon and its leaves. Seeing ants along the stems is a sign that the tree has pests. Aphids appear on new growth and can be squashed or hosed off. Scale typically appears on the stems or backs of leaves.

Apply horticultural spray oil according to the instructions on the container. Adult citrus bugs are green and with care can be knocked from the tree into a container of soapy water. Wear sunglasses when doing this as these pests squirt a toxic liquid that can burn eyes. Spraying with horticultural oil in winter reduces pest numbers and without the pests, the ants too should disappear.

5. Too cold

Lemon trees prefer a warm subtropical climate, but grow in cooler climates if sheltered from cold winds and cold winter conditions. When the tree is cold, its roots are unable to absorb enough nutrients to keep the leaves green so they turn yellow.

Shelter lemons from cold winds with plastic, a screen or a hedge. Keep the plant watered through winter but don’t apply fertiliser until spring when temperatures increase and the tree shows signs of new growth.

6. Rootbound

Lemons that are grown in pots may outgrow the space in one to two years, leaving the plant unable to take up enough water and nutrients to thrive.

To provide more space, repot the lemon into a slightly larger pot with fresh potting mix. Select a good quality potting mix and work in about 10 per cent by volume of compost. For long-term success, grow a dwarf lemon in a large pot.

Depending on the variety, lemon trees can grow up to around four or five metres tall, sometimes even higher, when planted in the ground. Dwarf varieties, like the popular Dwarf Meyer Lemon, tend not to surpass the two metre mark.

How tall do lemon trees grow?

7. Engulfed in weeds

Lemons don’t like sharing. To keep trees green, leafy and productive remove all competing weeds and grass from under and around a lemon tree. Replace the weeds with a 2-5cm layer of coarse organic mulch mixed with aged manure. Keep mulch away from the tree trunk.

The best products for a thriving lemon tree

01

Honest to Goodness Epsom Salt, Magnesium Sulphate, 5kg

$24.15, Amazon

Best for: addressing magnesium deficiency

Light green or yellow blotches on your lemon tree leaves can be a sign of magnesium deficiency. A quick way to fix this common issue is by adding a teaspoon of Epsom salts into two litres of water and distributing it evenly into the soil surrounding the tree.

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02

Yates Insect Control Spray

$14.30, Woolworths

Best for: controlling pests without causing leaf burn

Pests like mealy bugs and aphids crawling all over your lemon tree is a common cause of yellow leaves but, regular spritzes of a horticultural spray oil should fix that. This one from Yates even includes a UV inhibitor that helps prevent leaf burn during hot weather.

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03

Yates Iron Chelate Leaf Greener Conditioner

$31.99, Amazon

Best for: correcting iron deficiency

Low iron levels can also be a cause of yellow leaves, so an iron chelate product like this one from Yates is a great way to deliver a dose of iron directly to deficient leaves.

Shop Now

04

Avutto White Planter Large

$139.30, Freedom

Best for: stylishly housing your citrus tree

Yellowing leaves can often signal that your potted lemon tree has outgrown its home. The good news is that the solution is simple: repot the tree into a larger pot, like this minimalist weather-resistant one from Freedom. Generally, repotting needs to happen every two years to keep growing lemon trees happy.

Get more citrus gardening tips

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Sculptural and dramatic, an outdoor fireplace is guaranteed to be the centrepiece of any outdoor room or backyard. From outdoor heaters, to fire pits and even pizza ovens, heating your outdoor area has never been easier. And while there are a range of stylish and practical options available on the market, there’s nothing quite as magical as an outdoor fireplace.

To inspire you to transform your backyard, we’ve pulled together our favourite collection of cosy outdoor fireplace ideas.

25 outdoor fireplace ideas to save for later

The ultra-functional outdoor living are of this mid-century-inspired home in Victoria’s Torquay is made beautiful with a cylindrical brick fireplace. “We wanted an outdoor living room we could use year-round, hence the outdoor fireplace (in the cylindrical structure) and entertaining area,” says homeowner Suzy. “We love sitting out here at night, under the stars, warm by the fire and listening to tunes.” 

This south Coogee home oozes joyful design and playful personality. Outside, a patio area is lined with checkerboard marble tiles atop which sit a gorgeous pair of chairs and a brick outdoor fireplace.

Sitting upon a checkered tiled floor, the pergola-situated outdoor living area of this Southern Highlands weekender brings drama and whimsy, with its black brick fireplace and chandelier.

Krista, the owner of this renovated California bungalow, says that the family sits outside all year round. “We can open up the roof and skylights. Two are manual-open and the one closest to the barbecue is solar-powered.” In the centre of the home’s outdoor zone sits a custom-designed ethanol fireplace from Eco Smart Fire.

This thriving, seven-hectare peony farm in Tasmania has been thriving for two decades – and counting. The family’s outdoor entertaining area, entered via a hedged gravel path, features a gorgeous rustic-style fireplace, complete with its own towering chimney.

Afternoon shade adds to the serenity of the outdoor fireplace terrace in the garden of this glamorous Greg Natale designed home with art deco touches in Hunters Hill, Sydney. The large fireplace and picturesque setting make the home ripe for hosting year-round – just as the owners requested. Emu ‘Heaven’ woven steel chairs and coffee table, all from Ke-Zu. Custom cushions in Gaston y Daniela fabric from Domestic Textile.

“We put a chimney outside so when we have friends over it’s t his warm, inviting place to relax,” said the owner of this tired mid-century home turned airy beach shack in Flinders, on the Mornington Peninsula. Conveniently, the owner is a landscaper, so they designed a unique curved shape for the chimney and paired it perfectly with a timber wrapped outdoor dining set.

In this outdoor living space at a contemporary family home in Torquay, a wall of Danish-blend bricks creates privacy as well as a cosy hub for an outdoor fireplace. Niches in the wall act as the perfect storage for firewood and kindling. As trees surrounding the deck mature, they will increase shade cover, creating a space that is enjoyable in both winter and summer.

A stylish white outdoor fireplace allows the owners of this coastal haven on the Sydney Northern Beaches to entertain outside all year round.

Located in the heart of the Snowy Mountains, the town of Cooma, NSW gets cold. Here, an outdoor fireplace on the back verandah makes the outdoor spaces inviting even in the middle of winter. The owners of this restored heritage property opted for a Jetmaster fireplace, where they often gather as a family and toast marshmallows.

The outdoor fireplace of this neutral-toned home is sweet and petite. Turns out, we share our love of outdoor entertaining with the Italians, as this gorgeous apartment is located in none other than the historic city of Florence. Keeping the fireplace on the smaller side of things has meant that space can be maximised in this courtyard, with plenty of leftover room for lush plantings and spots to soak up the sun.

A stone, outdoor fireplace makes this bayside home feel like a European villa. The symmetrical quality of the structure has been offset with light-weight outdoor furniture and a decorative sculpture.

Chyka Keebaugh’s Mornington Peninsula weekender is as luxe as you’d expect, with one of the key highlights being this relaxed outdoor entertaining space. The generous fireplace is clad in warm stone that provides a stunning visual contrast to its natural surroundings.

Bonnie Hindmarsh of Three Birds Renovations transformed her semi-rural Sydney home into the coastal barn-style home of her dreams. As part of the revamp, the team added this striking stone-clad fireplace to the outdoor room.

On the outdoor deck of this all-white Byron Bay abode, a stunning outdoor fireplace and oven was created to help keep this space cosy all year long.

This luxurious penthouse apartment in Sydney has transformed the rooftop space into the ultimate urban oasis with lush plantings and a cosy outdoor fireplace.

Providing a dramatic contrast to the predominantly red-brick exterior of this revamped Edwardian home in Melbourne, the outdoor fireplace features a striking stucco finish in white.

In the courtyard of this inner-city home in Melbourne a clever small-space pool was added, with this brick wall acting as a pool fence. Making the most of their available space, an outdoor fireplace was built into the wall which has transformed the area into the perfect entertaining space.

Talk about making a bold statement! This sculptural fire place echoes the contemporary mid-century feel that runs throughout this Sydney home.

The outdoor room of this grand brick farmhouse took 12 months to create, and the end result is stunning. The brick-clad outdoor fireplace echoes the rustic country style that permeates the entire house.

This grandiose home in Melbourne’s Toorak features a sculptural fireplace that complements the striking white columns that feature in the outdoor entertaining zone.

The sophisticated outdoor entertaining space of this Modernist home is centred around the sleek firepit that adds a bold style statement.

In this inner-city garden terrace a striking concrete outdoor fireplace is the perfect finishing touch, providing a sculptural anchor against a backdrop of lush foliage.

This cottage-style garden features a mix of family-friendly spaces and vibrant plantings, with this striking outdoor fireplace adding the finishing touch.

An outdoor fireplace at a home in the NSW Southern Highlands makes this outdoor kitchen and dining space all the more inviting. The area is so relaxing even Raffles the Border Collie can’t help but take a breather!

The post Take cosy outdoors with these 25 outdoor fireplace ideas appeared first on Homes To Love.

The new growth from a rosemary plant is ideal to make softwood cuttings. They’re called this because they are taken from the soft new shoots, rather than harder wood further down the stem. Be prepared – propagating rosemary and other similar plants may become somewhat of an obsession, as you’ll quickly discover how many plants strike extremely easily.

Plus, did you know you could propagate rosemary with honey? We asked the Little Veggie Patch Co to show us how.

Step-by-step on how to propagate rosemary

• Start by taking 15cm snips off your rosemary bush.
• Strip the lower leaves from the base of the stem, leaving about 3cm of bare stem. Roots will grow from the leaf nodules.
• Dip the end of the stem in honey. Honey is a natural substitute for synthetic rooting hormones and will nourish the cutting, while promoting root growth.
• Plant it in potting mix and water it like any other seedling.
• Give it about 4 weeks before the roots develop before finding a home for it in the garden.

Can you root rosemary cuttings in water?

Aside from honey, there are other ways to get your rosemary cutting to form roots. Put your cuttings in fresh water until roots form, or place them into sand. Cuttings in water will typically produce roots faster, while those in sand tend to be stronger once transferred to soil.

What month do you take rosemary cuttings?

Rosemary cuttings that will be used to propagate new plants are best taken in late spring through to summer while the shoots are still springy, but not so soft that they will wilt in the heat of the day.

Regularly taking cuttings and pruning your rosemary bush will encourage it to focus on new growth rather.

Can you root rosemary cuttings in water?Benefits of growing rosemary plants

There are countless benefits to growing your own rosemary plants from cuttings. Rosemary is not only a fragrant garnish to cook with, but the herb has plenty of other purposes. Dried rosemary, either left to happen naturally or done in the oven, is a wonderful and sustainable addition to any craft table. It looks beautiful when styled on a table settings or as the finishing touch to a gift. Rosemary can also be used to make beautiful natural soaps.

See more on propagating plants

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How to propagate buxus, the perfect plant for hedging and topiary

A guide to propagating plants — and getting new blooms on a budget

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The post How to propagate rosemary from a cutting appeared first on Homes To Love.

Over the years I’ve planted thousands of trees. On the farm alone I’ve planted more than 20,000, ranging from native tubestock to encourage birds and wildlife to large olive trees that create an instant impact. You don’t need to have a large garden to have a tree. There are many beautiful dwarf citrus and crepe myrtles that look amazing in pots on balconies.

How to plant a tree the right way 

I used to simply stick a tree in the ground and walk away thinking my work was done. Sometimes they grew and sometimes they died. Over the years, I’ve learnt a few simple tricks that really make a difference. It’s not rocket science and, trust me, if you follow these simple steps, your success rate will improve dramatically.

Prepare the proper planting hole: When preparing any hole for planting, make it twice the width of  the current root mass, but never deeper than the pot it was growing in.

Plant high: I go one step further by placing trees and shrubs in their new home with up to 10 per cent of the root ball higher than the surrounding soil level. Next, I taper the soil up to cover all the roots and add a generous layer of mulch. It’s always better to plant slightly high to allow the area to drain properly.

Check the root ball: Once the plant is out of its container, look at the roots. If they are densely bound and seem rootbound, gently break up root ball with your fingers. One of the biggest mistakes you can make at this point is to place a rootbound plant into the ground as is. 

Eliminate air pockets: While you could lightly tamp down with your foot or hand-pack the soil around the roots, I prefer to backfill the hole halfway, then fill with water. This provides moisture, and the water also helps eliminate air pockets. Finally, water again gently but thoroughly once all the soil is in place.

Mulch: Starting about 10cm away from the trunk (leave this area exposed), place roughly 5-10cm of organic matter, such as shredded leaves, ground bark or nuggets around the plant, at least out to the drip line. Mulch helps retain moisture and keep roots cooler – an important requirement for newly installed plants.

Water, water and water: Until Established You may need to do this for months, or a year or more in some cases (I usually cheat and put them all on timed irrigation). The key to proper watering and establishment is slow and deep irrigation once a week.

Fertilise: Once the ground is wet, sprinkle it with a good amount of organic slow-release fertiliser before you cover it with mulch. This will help kickstart good robust growth. 

When is the best time to plant a tree

Trees (and shrubs) can be planted any time of the year that it’s possible to dig a suitable planting hole. But the optimal time to plant trees and shrubs is autumn. Autumn is great because the ground is still lovely and warm for the roots to get established and the days are starting to cool. Having said that, if you’re planning on growing a tree in a pot on your balcony, the time of year doesn’t matter.

How to choose the right tree for your garden

When someone talks about a tree, most people think of a 30-metre-tall oak tree towering over everything, but there are plenty of trees for smaller spaces, including balconies. We once bought a small Wollemi pine and slowly grew it on our balcony for 10 years until it was three metres tall and it now happily lives in the ground. The Italians are famous for growing their fruit trees in pots. If you’re unsure of what kind of tree will work best, start by measuring the site and working out the maximum space you can allow, then speak with your local nursery if in doubt.

How to move a tree

Conversely, if you have to move house and want to take the garden too, winter is the time to do it because this is the best time to move plants. When plants are dormant, or growing slowly, you can dig them up with little damage occurring, and transport them to a new garden or position. The cooler temperatures of winter also mean plants come under less stress during the move – and so do you. Emotionally, it is also easier to leave a garden in the winter when it is slumbering.

How to transplant a tree

You don’t have to take the extreme step of moving house to make the most of the winter to move a plant. If you have a plant that’s growing in the wrong spot, use this winter to dig it up and transplant it to a more suitable location within your garden, or to transfer it into a pot.

Not every plant is a good candidate for a move. If you are moving interstate, think twice about taking plants and remember that some states (particularly Tasmania and Western Australia) prohibit plant imports without quarantine certificates.

Plants that are very old, big and well established are hard to move without assistance. Their size makes them awkward and heavy to handle. Any plant that’s more than a metre high and wide has a heavy root ball. You will need at least two people to handle the plant safely. As plants get bigger, available muscle power may not be enough. You may need to call on the services of a small digger or a bobcat to dig up the plant.

Damage often occurs to the root system of plants as they are dug up and moved. If you don’t easily get most of the roots, the plant may die or be slow to re-establish in its new location.

What are the best and most robust plants to transplant

Most deciduous shrubs, bulbs and perennials are easily moved. Some evergreens such as camellias are also easy to move, but many native trees and shrubs resent a move. If the plant you want to move grows readily from seed or cutting, consider collecting seedor taking cuttings, rather than digging up the entire plant.

Plants that naturally form a clump, or produce runners with their own roots, can be moved by just digging up part of the plant and leaving the rest of it behind.

Plants that are worth moving are any that may be destroyed if they are left – perhaps by a house extension or changes to the garden layout – any that you feel are irreplaceable. Any plants you’ve put into the garden to help sell the house may also be easy to dig back up, repot and take with you to brighten up the new place.

If you are planning to take a major plant out of the garden, such as a maple, make this clear to your agent and potential buyers, to avoid problems. Think of the plants in the garden as you would the fittings and fixtures in the house.

How to move a plant

To prepare a plant for its move, first dig around the root system. If you have time to do this several months ahead of the move, dig a trench around the plant at the extent of its leaves. This severs the main roots, which begin to form new, fine feeding roots that will help the plant adapt to its new location. Fill the trench with sand or compost and give the root area between the trunk and the trench regular water. Apply a seaweed tonic every two or three weeks.

When the day of the move arrives, dig down and under the plant. Slip a tarp, some hessian or a large sheet of plastic under the root ball, and use it to help keep the root system together and to help manoeuvre the plant.

If you need to put the uprooted plant in a pot, shake or hose off the soil, trim damaged or broken roots, then put the plant in a pot with a commercial potting mix. Water it well.

Spray the plant with an anti-transpirant product to reduce water loss from the foliage, and keep it in a cool, shaded spot to reduce stress.

Once you have the plant in its new location, water it every few weeks with a seaweed tonic. Shelter the plant from wind and extreme heat or cold with a temporary screen or cover of shadecloth. Monitor it carefully and provide extra water when it is hot, dry or windy, as it will probably wilt readily.

If you want to move a valuable plant, but can’t do the job yourself, you can call on the services of a landscape contractor. Contact the Landscape Industries Association in your area.

When should you should move a tree

Before you decide to move a plant, ask these questions and think the job through carefully from start to finish.

How big is this plant? If it is over a metre high or wide, be prepared for heavy work due to the weight of the root ball. Check the cost of transport with the removalist.

Is it a special variety, or can I buy a new one? If you know the name of the variety, check with your local nursery to see if you can readily buy the plant. If you can buy it, get another plant when you’re ready to plant in your new garden.

Will it suit my new climate? Don’t move plants out of their climate zone. In particular, take into account frost, rainfall and summer heat.

Can I water and care for the plant in its new location? If you will be a long time in transit, or busy on arrival, plants that need lots of care may be too hard to manage.

Do I have somewhere to plant it in the new garden? Consider where it is going to go in the new location.

The post How to move or plant a tree that will flourish for years to come appeared first on Homes To Love.

Many of the problems that can plague gardenias will take hold during winter and early spring due to drops in temperature. Here, we run through some of the main causes gardenia leaves turn yellow, flowers to drop off, other commonly searched gardenia planting questions.

So here’s how to care for this beautiful, white-flowering plant and keep it in tip-top condition all year round.

Why are my gardenia leaves going yellow?

Gardenia problems are common during winter and early spring as flower buds dropping and yellow foliage usually occurs because of the cold. Luckily, preventing gardenia leaves from turning yellow is easy when you understand the root cause.

If leaves yellow on your gardenias into the warmer months, it’s likely to be a lack of iron and/or magnesium.

Magnesium deficiency first affects old leaves, so if you see a drop in older leaves, sprinkle a teaspoon of Epsom salts around the plant and water in.

Iron deficiency on the other hand, first affects new leaves. If you notice a drop in newly grown leaves, apply iron chelates to the plant and treat in late spring and again in summer.

Why are my gardenia leaves dropping off?

Older, lower leaves fall as new leaves and shoots are produced in warm weather, so don’t panic if it’s the change of season. You can also expect some winter leaf drop in cooler climates.

• The genus Gardenia includes about 60 species from the tropics and subtropics of Africa, Asia, Australia and the Pacific.
• This small tree grows up to 5m high with large, short-lived, richly perfumed flowers. It has two mass flowerings, in spring and again in summer. But the number one gardenia is the common gardenia, Gardenia jasminoides (formerly G. augusta), a native of China and Japan.
• ‘Florida’ is the main variety grown, with the larger ‘Magnifica’ and the low-growing ‘Radicans’ coming second and third.

What you should know about gardenias:

How do you take care of gardenias in Australia?

The leafy flowering shrubs are found in warm climates, which make them perfect for Australian gardens. Gardenias love a warm sunny or partly shady spot in acidic soil that is watered weekly on average. Warmer days mean the plant will need need more frequent watering, but be careful not to overwater!

How to maintain and take care of gardenias:

Gardenias relish even moisture, but their roots rapidly rot in poorly drained soils, so if you use saucers under your pots always tip any water out of them. Feed gardenias monthly from late spring to the end of summer, when they actively take up nutrients. Use poultry manure sparingly or feed with a flower and fruit fertiliser or seaweed tonic.

Gardenias also require protection from intense sun. A large shade tree, like a jacaranda or poinciana tree, is good for protecting gardenias from direct heat.

Best regions for growing gardenias in Australia:

Coastal regions best suited to gardenias occur from Perth and Sydney northwards, but in these locations, need to be protected from salt-laden sea breezes.

For Victorian and South Australian gardeners, the gardenia cultivar ‘Grandiflora Star’ is the best choice. In the tropics, subtropics and inland regions, gardenias can have too much sunshine, and last longer in spots where they receive dappled afternoon shade.

They also need an acidic soil between pH 4.5 and 5.5. The Tahitian gardenia (G. taitensis) is the only species that copes with alkaline soils, but it can be hard to find and requires a warm climate.

How to make a neutral soil more acidic:

To make a neutral soil more acidic, you can watering on iron chelates once or twice each year in late spring, summer or early autumn. Alternatively, you can rake in one handful of powdered sulfur per square metre in late spring or a month before planting, and mulch regularly with pine or she-oak needles to gradually acidify the soil.

Gardenias need daytime temperatures above 10–15°C to start flowering, which is why many of the flower buds that form in warm autumn weather succumb to colder winter temperatures and drop off.

How to grow gardenias in containers:

Gardenias are ideal for containers or garden borders. These shallow-rooted plants love frost-free, humid climates and grow best in well-dug, freely draining, compost-enriched, acidic soil. They love plenty of well-rotted manure, compost or a half-and-half mixture of both before planting, which you can fork into the top 30–45cm of soil before you plant.

In subsequent years, mulch the plant with a 10cm layer of compost in spring to supplement the organic content of soil, as compost is great for encouraging earthworm activity. Alternatively, you can mulch with straw, lucerne, sugarcane or hay, but it’s best to keep it away from the base of the plants to avoid stem rot.

How to grow gardenias in pots:

The best way to enjoy gardenias in cool or inland regions is to grow them in pots. This allows you to move them to a sunny, sheltered position in winter, or a cooler spot with afternoon shade in summer.

Plastic or ceramic pots are preferable to terracotta or concrete as they don’t allow the potting mix to dry out as rapidly. Use a potting mix for acid-loving plants.

How to repot gardenias:

During the warmer months, gardenias grow steadily, and in southern Australia this may mean re-potting only every other year at the most.

Congested roots stunt growth, and damaging their roots during re-potting can cause flower buds to drop. Planting, transplanting and repotting are best completed in spring.

• ‘Florida’
• ‘Gold Magic’
• ‘Four Seasons’
• ‘Professor Pucci’

Top Gardenia cultivars

What are tree gardenias best suited for?

The tree gardenia (Rothmannia globosa), from South Africa, can often be found in heritage gardens. Tough and slow-growing, this plant makes an attractively shaped small tree, growing to about 6m high.

Its fragrant, cream to white red-speckled flowers bloom in one large show in spring, and are followed by masses of macadamia-like seed pods. A very old and lovely specimen can be seen at Camden Park House in Sydney’s south-west, home of wool pioneers John and Elizabeth Macarthur.

When do gardenias flower in Australia?

Gardenias flower in summer, but also spot-flowers in spring and autumn.

Why have my gardenia’s flower buds dropped off?

Overwatering, drought, inadequate sun, or high or low night temperatures can be the problem. To mediate this, choose an ideal location and provide consistent care, and this may mean repotting or moving its planter.

Flower buds dropping off may also be a result of sap-sucking pests such as thrips or aphids. Try spraying buds and flowers with a horticultural spray oil three times in spring or summer, three weeks apart, and this should deter the pests.

Why have my gardenia leaves turned black?

Sooty mould is a harmless fungus that coats leaves that grows on honeydew, a sticky, sweet substance excreted by scale and mealybug. To protect your leaves from this fungus, spray the entire plant with a horticultural spray oil. The mould will crumble away or use a soft cloth and soapy water to gently remove it.

Why didn’t my gardenia flower?

Gardenias flower on new growth. Prune or shape your gardenia plants, especially hedges, in late August at the latest.

Why do my gardenia flowers turn brown?

Flowers naturally darken from white to yellow as they mature, and drought and intense sun cause flowers to burn, brown and crisp. If it is the latter, protect gardenias from hot afternoon sun, especially in inland, tropical or subtropical climates.

The post How to stop gardenia leaves from turning yellow, and other commonly searched gardenia questions appeared first on Homes To Love.

Apart from the beauty that they can provide, ground covers also offer practical benefits. They can suppress weeds, prevent what would otherwise be bare soil from drying out, and even stop sloping garden beds from sliding. And when they are flowering, the aesthetic and emotional benefits are endless.

With numerous flowering options to choose from, whether your garden is rambling and untamed, or structured and manicured, there is sure to be a plant to suit. There are even plenty of drought-tolerant and shade-loving plants for flowering groundcovers. As particularly hardy plants, flowering ground covers are also generally quite easy to grow and require little to no maintenance.

You can’t go wrong with these seven flowering ground cover varieties for sun, shade and fast growth.

Best flowering ground cover plants

1. Lamb’s Ear

Producing velvety silver-grey leaves, Lamb’s Ears are not only a beautiful ground covering, but one of the hardiest and easiest to care for. The perennials grow into a tight, dense mat, and can also be used for border edging in your garden beds, and they welcome dainty white and yellow flowers.

It grows well in most areas including even those with drought-like conditions, and while it prefers full sun, it can thrive in partial shade, so long as the soil isn’t too moist. To help it spread along the ground, it’s best to divide and replant it at the end of each season.

2. Native Violet

Native violet is your go-to flowering groundcover plant for that shady, often damp area down the side of the house and is similar in appearance to a wild grass. It’s ideal to soften around a stepping-stone path, adding pretty mauve and white flowers for most of the year to the dense cover of round leaves.

It spreads easily, so don’t use where it will compete with other plants. In shade it can reach 10cm tall, but is flatter in sunnier and drier spots. It grows in most climates.

3. Star Jasmine

Star jasmine is the climber we love for its mass of perfumed white flowers that bloom from late spring to early summer. Not only is the white star flower aesthetically blessed, is also makes an equally hardy groundcover.

Use it in sun or shade to cover large areas under tall trees or across sloping banks. It forms a dense cover about 30cm high, but if you want a lower and tighter flowering ground cover, look for Asiatic star jasmine (Trachelospermum asiaticum), especially the cultivar ‘Flat Mat’. Shear it all over after flowering finishes.

4. Bellflower

Profuse, star-shaped flowers in lavender-blue from mid-spring to summer make this dense flowering ground cover as pretty as it is practical. The soft, heart-shaped leaves reach no more than 15cm high but can spread indefinitely. It sometimes self-seeds in the cracks of paths or steps, so is able to tolerate occasional dryness.

It’s also lovely spilling over rocks, or filling in between perennials and shrubs. It grows in cool and warm climates where it’s protected from hot sun.

5. Blue Bugle

This shade-loving beauty forms flat rosettes of shiny leaves from which tall spikes of blue flowers rise in spring and summer. The leaves are usually glossy deep green, but ‘Atropurpurea’ has purplish tones; ‘Burgundy Glow’ features mottled cream, pale green and crimson leaves; and ‘Catlin’s Giant’ has larger, red-tinted foliage.

Grow Ajuga in warm or cool climates (where it takes more sun) but not the tropics. It’s useful under deciduous trees or to bind soil. Once established, it forms a dense mat.

6. Creeping Boobialla

For hot, dry spots, this Australian native plant is a good choice because it’s tough and easy-care. The foliage can be green or bronze-purple, and there’s also a fine-leafed form.

In spring, it’s sprinkled with small, white or pale pink starry flowers. The stems form roots as they grow, so it’s excellent for binding steep banks, and looks lovely as fill between native shrubs or spilling over a wall. It grows in cool, warm and subtropical climates and needs a lot of sun.

7. Creeping Thyme

Believe it or not, this aromatic herb makes for an excellent and hardy groundcover. Thyme produces small, vibrant green leaves that have a fresh fragrance. Opt for the creeping variety and it can grow up to 5cm thick, and spread up to 50cm along the ground.

It’s a sun-loving option for groundcover that needs very little watering, and looks stunning when planted between pavers or stepping stones in your garden. Be aware that creeping thyme isn’t quite as flavourful as the variety commonly used in cooking, but can be used nonetheless. Just make sure you give it a good wash if its been stepped on!

What is the best low maintenance flowering ground cover in Australia?

Several varieties are easy to grow and maintain in Australian gardens, including Lamb’s Ear and Creeping Thyme. They are known for their easy care and resilience, meaning you can get back to whatever it is you were doing before you planted your ground cover.

What is the best flowering ground cover to choke out weeds?

Flowering ground cover plants offer practical benefits like acting to suppress weeds by physically removing space for weeds to grow. Hardy, bulky plants are a great option, and include native violet, blue bugle and creeping thyme.

The post 7 flowering ground cover plants for Australian gardens appeared first on Homes To Love.

Grabbing Mum a box of chocolates and a bunch of flowers will let her know she’s appreciated this Mother’s Day, but to really earn the title of ‘favourite child’ you may have to make a little extra effort. And we’re not talking about messing up her kitchen to cook breakfast in bed or disrupting her sleep-in to head out for brunch.

If your mum loves to potter around the garden doing all manner of things from weeding to pruning, watering and planting, then you’re in luck! We’ve made the extra effort for you by searching high and low for the best Mother’s Day presents that garden-loving mums will adore.

While we know she’ll be happy to receive any of these gifts, above all, Mother’s Day is a time to show your appreciation and give thanks for all the hard work she’s done over the years.

That means if your mum is due for a pamper session or to simply spend an afternoon with her feet up, another great no-cost gardening gift idea is to take a load off her shoulders by tackling some (or all!) of these autumn gardening jobs.

The best gardening gifts for mum

01

Plantopedia: The Definitive Guide to House Plants

$52.25, Booktopia

Indoor plants are an essential part of any home’s decor, and this beautifully curated book by Leaf Supply’s Lauren Camilleri and Sophia Kaplan is the essential guide to ensuring your plants thrive all year round.

Available at:

• $59.99 from Myer
• $66 from Freedom
• $79.95 from Temple & Webster

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02

Brixton Joanna straw hat

$47 (usually $79.95), The Iconic

If your mum is prone to spending hours out under the sun, make sure she’s protected from head to toe with the help of a lightweight, breathable, and incredibly stylish hat like this wide-brimmed woven straw number.

Available at:

• $40 from Surfstitch
• $108.84 from Revolve

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03

Sophie Conran garden fork

$55, Aura Home

Easy-to-use gardening tools that look great are an essential part of any avid gardener’s kit, so refresh mum’s toolbelt with this beautiful garden fork by English interior designer Sophie Conran. Complete the set at Aura Home with Sophie’s hard-wearing secateurs, a weeder, and trowel.

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04

Personalised gardening A5 cloth notebook

$39.95, Hard To Find

Bring the outdoors in with this beautiful customisable notebook that features an adorable illustrated garden-inspired cover that’s sure to help keep your mum organised.

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05

Hunter Original refined tall gumboots in Black Gloss

$205.50 (usually $293), Asos

Rain, hail or shine, any passionate gardener is bound to get their hands and feet deep in the soil. Help your mum garden in comfort with a hardy pair of Hunter’s rain boots that will keep her feet warm no matter the weather.

Available at:

• $168.50 from The Iconic
• $239 from David Jones

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06

Burgon & Ball seed package storage tin in Green

$78, Hard To Find

Help mum keep her smaller gardening supplies and seeds organised and protected with this stylish storage tin. Compact and easy to use, it is made with powder-coated steel, comes in Green, Blue and Stone, and features a genuine leather handle for easy portability.

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07

Crabtree & Evelyn Gardeners Hand Therapy

$21.61, Amazon

If your mum is frequently tending to her plants, chances are she’s regularly washing her hands throughout the day. Help keep her hands in tip-top shape with this luxurious hand balm that is especially designed to hydrate and replenish hard-working mitts.

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08

Esschert Design garden tool belt in Green

$44.76, Amazon

There’s nothing more frustrating than getting into a gardening groove and finding that you’ve misplaced your secateurs. Keep your gardening tools within easy reach courtesy of this stylish and hard-wearing gardening tool belt. With deep pockets, you’ll never lose a thing again.

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The post 8 Mother’s Day gift ideas for mums who love to garden appeared first on Homes To Love.

There is a huge variety of perennial plant species, ranging from ferns and grasses to flowering ground covers, making it easy to create a perennial garden to suit any style of home and landscape.

Spring is the best time to plant perennials. In warm climates, most perennials will grow continuously throughout the year while in colder, seasonal climates their growth is usually limited to the growing season.

Here, garden guru Dale Vine shares his tips on planting perennial flowers and vegetables as part of your spring gardening routine.

Perennial flowers

Springtime brings a burst of bright colour from many perennial flowers. Marigolds, violas, calendulas, borage and nasturtiums are all annual favourites, and many can be found potted up for their happy colours – in feature pots, hanging baskets or alongside an entrance path to properties that are for sale to improve their kerb appeal.

Perennials also provide fantastic interest in a larger garden when used as a border plant, almost inviting your eyes to gaze deeper into the garden. September is a good time to plant perennials in warmer parts of Australia but wait a little longer if you live in an area prone to late frosts. Annual flowers will not cope well with low temperatures – you may lose them quickly or they could suffer unsightly frost damage.

Perennial vegetables

Perennial vegetables are just like other ornamental perennial plants, and grow from a dormant root or tuber usually called a crown. They are available from nurseries or mail-order specialists.

They’re particularly popular with busy gardeners who don’t want to replant each year and include artichoke, arrowroot, horseradish and rhubarb which can all be dug up, divided and then replanted during spring.

Once they are replanted, water them regularly as they will suffer some stress from their roots being divided. Seasol (seaweed concentrate) mixed with water will help combat root stress.

Other popular evergreen perennials

• Catmint (Nepeta x faassenii)
• Gaura (butterfly bush)
• Lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina)
• Lavender (Lavandula dentata)
• Euphorbia, bearded iris (Iris germanica)
• Indian Hawthorn (Rhaphiolepis ‘Oriental Pearl’)
• Coastal rosemary (Westringia fruticosa)
• Box shrub (Buxus)
• Hydrangea
• Hostas
• Avocado

What is the difference between annuals and perennials?

While perennials live and can regrow for up to three years, annuals are any plant or flower that completes only one growth cycle before dying off. Annuals are typically bright, vibrant and showy; examples include petunia, begonia, geraniums, marigolds, sunflowers and dahlias. Biennials, on the other hand, will last for two years but will only flower in the second year. After that, they drop seeds and in another two years, your supply will have replenished – examples include black-eyed Susan, parsley, fennel and silverbeet.

The post How to create a garden full of flourishing perennial plants appeared first on Homes To Love.

So, now that daylight savings has come to an end and the nights are starting to get cooler, take advantage of a clear, starry night and build a backyard fire to keep you warm and cozy (marshmallows included).

Here, we’ve rounded up 10 of the best fire pits for every outdoor setting that will create a sophisticated focal point in your backyard.

01

Stanley Deep Bowl Cast Iron Fire Pit

from $219 at Temple & Webster

Best for: durability

A thick cast iron frame defines this warm fire pit, with its rust coloured finish bringing a delightful, homely energy to your backyard or garden, with year-round comfort courtesy of its weather-defying rust finish. Yes it’s over budget (only slightly) but catch it when it’s on special as it often drops to sub $200.

Size: 26cm H x 72cm W x 72cm D

Colour: Rust coloured

Material: Cast Iron

Key features:

• Thick cast iron frame with a warm rust finish
• Weather resistant, perfect for use all year round
• The deep bowl fire pit with trivet base doubles as an outdoor cooking station

Shop now

02

Grillz Rustic Fire Pit Heater

from $182.95 at Myer

Best for: functional design

Grillz’s fire pit heater is an elegant, minimalist statement piece for your backyard. Durable and stylish, this cast iron fire pit is designed to be heat, frost and corrosion-resistant.

Size: 60cm x 60cm x 28cm

Colour: Rust

Material: Iron

Key features:

• Heat, frost and corrosion-resistant,
• The deep dish bowl allows ample space for plenty of coal or firewood
• Patinated finish and texture

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03

Fireside Portable Popup Fire Pit

from $159.99 at BCF

Best for: camping

Don’t be put off by the words portable or popup – this lightweight fire pit is very sturdy. Perfect for campers, it can be set up in under a minute. Once the fire is extinguished, it will take just 90 seconds to cool down so you can pack it away quickly.

Size: 60cm W x 60cm L

Colour: Silver

Material: Stainless steel

Key features:

• Optimised airflow for less smoke
• Packs up small for portability
• Innovative design cuts the bulk and weight of traditional fire pits

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04

Kala Rustic Fire Pit

from $149 at BBQs Galore

Best for: rustic look

If you love the rustic look, this steel fire pit in a naturally oxidised finish is perfect. It also comes with a chrome half cooking grill, so you can stay warm with a bevvy or two and let dinner cook away over the open fire.

Size: 56 cm D x 38 cm H x 56cm W

Colour: Rust

Material: Steel

Key features:

• Naturally oxidised finish and
• Chrome plated half cooking grill barbeque
• Constructed from durable steel

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05

Flex Furniture 59cm Black Steel Fire Pit

from $149 at Temple & Webster

Best for: reason

Made from steel, this simple fire pit design by Flex Furniture will do the job. Featuring a modern, black finish, it will look great in any style of backyard or courtyard.

Size: 21cm H x 59cm W x 59cm D

Colour: Black

Material: Heat resistant steel

Key features:

• Portable & easy to move
• Resilient to Heat and Harsh Weather
• Sleek black design

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06

Glow Tambo Fire Pit

from $89 at Bunnings

Best for: affordability

Stylish design, clever kindling storage nook and sturdy construction? This fire pit from Bunnings has it all.

Size: 56cm W x 40cm H x 56cm L

Colour: Bronze

Material: Weathering Steel

Key features:

150-300 word description of this product.

• Weathering steel designed to deepen in colour over time
• Added convenience of log storage
• Easy assembly

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Are fire pits legal in NSW?

Fire pit regulations and laws vary from state to state, but at the time of publication, NSW residents do not need approval for a backyard fire pit or barbeque, and should only use dry seasoned wood, liquid petroleum gas (LPG), natural gas or preparatory barbecue fuel (including a small quantity of fire starter).

However, rules do change often and with little warning, so if you are planning to light an outside fire, you should check with relevant councils.. No-burn notices issued by the EPA or Total Fire Bans issued by the Rural Fire Service override any of these conditions unless an exemption for specific circumstances such as hazard reduction burns is included in the notice.

And it goes without saying, if you reside in an apartment you should verify with your Strata before grabbing the kindling.

Can I have a fire pit in my backyard Melbourne?

Fire pit regulations and laws vary from state to state, and VIC has very specific regulations around fire pit usage, dependant by local council. At the time of publication, many LGAs can only light a fire pit in a backyard if is in a brazier, chiminea or purpose built or portable fire pit constructed of fire resistant materials; or in a constructed barbeque, grill, pizza oven or similar for the purpose of cooking food.

What’s best to burn in a fire pit?

Wood can generally fit into two main types: hardwood and softwood. Hardwood burns slower and produces a cleaner, longer-lasting fire but can be harder to light, whereas softwood ignites quickly and creates a vibrant flame but a large amount of smoke. In most cases, hardwood like oak is a great option. In addition, small sticks and twigs, or kindling, will help get the fire started.

The main thing is ensuring you have good quality, dry firewood.

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The post The best fire pits under $200 to warm up your backyard appeared first on Homes To Love.

The story of this garden began when city girl Virginia was seduced by the country, encouraged by friends who had settled in Macedon in central Victoria, on the traditional lands of the Dja Dja Wurrung, Taungurung and Wurundjeri Woi Wurrung peoples. In the wake of COVID lockdowns, Melbourne had lost its charm, and Virginia says, “Every time I’d come to visit their house, it would feel like this beautiful escape from the city”. Oak Cottage, with charm in spades and more than enough room for green-thumbed tinkering, stole her heart.

The adorable cottage deserved a gorgeous front garden to match, but although Virginia is a keen amateur gardener, she was unsure exactly where to start. “I knew I wanted something beautiful, that I could enjoy and spend time in, but it was an unclear vision,” she says. Luckily, the friends who prompted her tree change include Grant Smitten of Macedon Ranges Garden Services, who knew landscape designer Tim Pilgrim by reputation.

Tim, who specialises in naturalistic cottage gardens, set about crafting a plan built on Virginia’s loosely formed vision. “Talking to him about how I currently use the garden, what I didn’t like about it and what I was hoping to achieve, really helped shape my thinking and helped me work out how I wanted to use the garden,” says Virginia. As step one of the design process, Tim asked Virginia to share any gardens she liked – in a serendipitous twist, she named the nearby Garden of St Erth at The Diggers Club, which Tim had previously worked on. “It felt like it was meant to be,” says Virginia.

Through their conversations, the garden design started to emerge, like an image coming into focus – the spot where Virginia had soaked up afternoon sun became a summer courtyard, the living umbrella of the oak tree dictated the position of a paved dining area, while the dappled shade from that tree inspired a brightening floral palette of whites, mauves and pastels, which worked neatly with the blousy, layered cottage-garden look Virginia loved.

The heritage home inspired the look, but also threw up some challenges. With its welcoming verandah and period details, the cottage’s symmetrical facade would normally have dictated a more formal style of garden. But the old front door now opens onto Virginia’s home office, with the main entrance around the corner, raising the question of how to direct traffic. The solution was countering the straight lines of the house with curves and flowing pathways that lead from the front gate, offer glimpses of open spaces and draw visitors towards the oak to the right of the house.

Though the garden is richly layered with flowers and foliage, it’s surprisingly low maintenance, designed to have a thorough clipping and tidy up twice a year, with not much in between, says Tim. The labour-light design is due to his preference for a naturalistic style that allows perennials to run through their full cycle with minimal interference. “The traditional garden advice suggests that as soon as the flower finishes, you cut them down. But I try to choose plants, not just for the colour of their flower, but for the colour of their foliage and their structure into decay; how their seed heads look and how they stand up when they’re in decay over winter,” he says. As a result, flowers peak and die back, with a new cast of blooms always following on their heels to keep the garden looking lush and vibrant.

This idea of multiple garden heroes, each stepping into the spotlight, then fading out to support a new star, requires a skilful balance and an imaginative vision. Tim explains that this scene, with its haze of mauve and white, punctuated by purple alliums like fireworks, is just one of the garden’s many faces. As the alliums fade to straw-coloured seedheads that roll around like tumbleweeds, Tim says a new palette, driven by peachy orange achilleas, will emerge. Hot pinks start to come through late in the season, fading into rich autumn tones to complement the falling leaves of the oak. “It’s an ever-evolving display. Hopefully we’ll get six ‘scenes’ out of it that are really pretty.”

This constant change encourages Virginia to keep exploring, drawing her outside to snatch little moments of serenity in the middle of a work day. “Often if I’m on a lunch break or I have 10 minutes between meetings, I’ll wander out and have a look, see if something new has started to bloom. There’s just something about that connection to nature and being in the fresh air,” she says.

To see more of Tim’s work, visit tpgardens.com.au or follow @t.p_gardens on Instagram.

The post A layered and labour-light garden where colourful perennials take turns in the spotlight appeared first on Homes To Love.

Outdoor potted plants create a focal point in larger gardens, but can also quite as easily elevate courtyards, balconies and patios that don’t have as much access to garden beds and soil. 

When it comes to picking a suitable variety, there is an abundance of plants that thrive this way, from edible potted citrus trees to fragrant frangipanis and, of course, more sculptural topiary shrubs.  

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Otto metal decorative pot, Pillow Talk

$99.95

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Temple & Webster Mona iron plant pot

$69.95 (usually $114)

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You can easily transform your outdoor space into a lush oasis by pairing stylish outdoor plant pots with the right species. 

Here, we take a look at the best outdoor potted plants; whether they’re sun- or shade-loving, chosen for their good looks, or for being robust and easy to grow.

The best outdoor potted plants in Australia

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)

Best for: shady gardens

Peace lilies are a very popular indoor plant, but this glossy-leafed beauty also thrives outside in a warm, bright spot, out of direct sun. The white blooms are long-lasting and make for a spectacle in your garden. Outdoors, peace lilies can tolerate temperatures between 18°C to 27°C, but it’s best to move them indoors in more severe weather.

Tips for growing peace lily in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Place in bright, indirect light
• Water when the top inch of soil feels dry
• Fertilise monthly during the growing season

Fuchsia (Fuchsia spp.)

Best for: shady gardens

Fuchsias are traditionally shade-loving plants but the Sun Kisses variety also takes full sun. They flower profusely throughout the year and can tolerate temperatures from -3˚C to 40˚C. They thrive outdoors in pots, provided they have well-draining soil and indirect light. They can also be trained to grow as a tree, bush (prune regularly), in baskets, or even espaliered or as bonsai. 

Tips for growing fuchsia in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Place in bright, indirect light
• Keep soil constantly moist
• Feed with balanced fertiliser during the growing season

Port wine magnolia (Michelia figo)

Best for: shady gardens

Port wine magnolias (or Magnolia figo) may be slow-growing but they’re a very worthwhile large shrub. The dense, small leaves make an excellent screen, and the bubblegum perfume of its spring flowers is a bonus. When growing Port wine magnolias outdoors in pots, ensure you have a big enough pot and that it’s placed in partial shade or dappled sunlight.

Tips for growing Port wine magnolia in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Place in partial sunlight
• Keep soil moist but not waterlogged
• Fertilise during the growing season
• Prune to maintain the desired size and shape

Flamingo flower (Anthurium)

Best for: shady gardens

Anthuriums prefer bright light without direct sun and in a warm climate. Their flowers last for months and you can use them as a table centrepiece or for splashes of colour in your garden. Anthuriums can thrive potted outdoors in tropical or subtropical regions, but in cooler climates or areas with harsh winters, it’s best to keep them as an indoor potted plant.

Tips for growing Anthuriums in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Place in partial sunlight
• Keep soil moist and consider misting foliage regularly
• Fertilise during the growing season

Golden cane palm (Dypsis lutescens)

Best for: shady gardens

If you’re looking for a tall potted plant for your garden, Gold cane palms can grow to 10 metres and are a dense, clumping plant. It’s lush and undemanding, although drying winds and hot sun can burn leaf tips. Similar to Anthuriums, Gold cane thrives in tropical or subtropical climates.

Tips for growing Golden cane palm in pots:

• Use well-draining soil
• Choose a pot 2-3 times larger than the palm’s root ball
• Place in partial sunlight
• Keep soil moist and consider misting foliage regularly
• Fertilise during the growing season
• Repot every 2-3 years

Camellia (Camellia japonica)

Best for: shady gardens

Camellias, with their dark, lustrous foliage, are the perfect foil for large and beautiful winter flowers, in pink, red and white. When it comes to putting them in outdoor pots, make sure to select a smaller variety. Camellia japonica cultivars like ‘Nuccio’s Gem’ and ‘Debutante’ are popular choices for potting, as well as Sasanqua camellias varieties like ‘Setsugekka’ and ‘Yuletide’.

Tips for growing camellias in pots:

• Select a large pot with drainage holes
• Use potting mix formulated for acid-loving plants
• Place in partial shade to filtered light
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a balanced, slow-release fertiliser
• Move potted plants to shelter during frost

Fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata)

Best for: shady gardens

Popular as a house plant in the 1960s for its handsome, large leaves and un-killable nature the fiddle leaf fig is enjoying a welcome comeback to garden designs everywhere. It’s tall and striking wherever it’s placed, and thrives in a pot indoors. It can also be grown in a pot outdoors but is more suitable for tropical and subtropical regions.

Tips for growing fiddle-leaf figs in pots:

• Ensure you live in warm, tropical conditions
• Select a large pot with drainage holes
• Place in a sheltered location with partial shade
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a balanced, slow-release fertiliser
• Move potted plants to shelter during frost

Blueberry

Best for: sunny gardens

Delicious blueberries are easy to grow in large pots and have pretty profuse flowers. Choose evergreen varieties such as Blueberry Burst that look good year-round. Cultivars that work particularly well for container gardening include Sunshine Blue, Top Hat, Peach Sorbet, and Jelly Bean.

Tips for growing blueberries in pots:

• Select a large pot with at least 40-50 cm diameter
• Use a well-draining, acidic potting mix
• Place in full sun to partial shade
• Keep soil constantly moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a slow-release, acid-forming fertilise
• Prune to encourage fruiting
• Ensure adequate pollination by attracting bees

Geranium Big Red (Pelargonium x hortorum Big Red)

Best for: sunny gardens

The star performer among the geranium species, the ‘Big Red’ has bold red flowers for most of the year, is terrifically disease resistant and thrives in pots.

Tips for growing geranium in pots:

• Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes
• Ensure they get 6-8 hours of sunlight per day
• Keep soil constantly moist
• Feed with a balanced fertiliser during the growing season
• Remove spent flowers regularly to encourage new growth
• Pinch back stems to encourage branching

Chilean Jasmine (Mandevilla)

Best for: sunny gardens

You can grow this long-flowering beauty as a climber or nip the tendrils for a soft, bushy effect. There are pink, white and crimson varieties, all with glossy leaves, and they thrive when they are grown outdoors in pots.

Tips for growing Chilean jasmine in pots:

• Pick an extra-large pot to accommodate growth
• Use well-draining potting mix
• Ensure at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a balanced fertiliser during the growing season
• Provide a trellis or support structure to climb
• Prune regularly to control size and shape

Imperial Bromeliad (Alcantarea imperialis)

Best for: sunny gardens

For a bit of wow factor, the bromeliad plant is unequalled, especially the Rubra and Silver Plum varieties. They can reach two metres across, so allow room with an extra-large pot.

Tips for growing bromeliad in pots:

• Select a pot that is wide and shallow
• Use well-draining potting mix or a mixture of orchid bark, perlite, and peat moss
• Position in bright, indirect light
• Don’t overwater – only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch
• Consider misting the foliage occasionally

Dwarf sacred bamboo (Nandina Gulf Stream, Flirt and Obsession)

Best for: sunny gardens

Great texture and colour combine with toughness in the leafy Dwarf sacred bamboo plant. The colour intensifies in cool weather. Dwarf Sacred Bamboo is a compact variety of Nandina that is well-suited to growing in pots.

Tips for growing Dwarf sacred bamboo in pots:

• Select a pot that is wide and shallow
• Use a well-draining potting mix designed for outdoor ornamental plants
• Ensure at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Feed with a balanced fertiliser during the growing season

Dwarf kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos Bush Gems series Bush Fantasy)

Best for: sunny gardens

Just one of many colours in this series, dwarf kangaroo paw is grown and bred for superior flowering and performance and because of their more compact nature, are suitable for growing in pots.

Tips for growing Dwarf kangaroo paw in pots:

• Select a large, deep pot with good drainage holes
• Use a well-draining potting mix designed for native Australian plants
• Ensure at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day
• Don’t overwater – only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch
• Use a slow-release, low-phosphorus fertiliser during growing months
• Remove spent flower stems and dead or yellowing leaves regularly

Bird of paradise (Strelitzia reginae)

Best for: sunny gardens

Silvery leaves and exotic flowers make the Bird of Paradise a popular and striking ornamental accent plant, yet it’s also tough as nails and can easily be grown outside in pots. Bird of paradise plants are also great for hot, exposed and windy spots.

Tips for growing Bird of Paradise in pots:

• Select a large, deep and heavy pot with good drainage holes
• Use a well-draining potting mix designed for tropical plants or palms
• Ensure at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Use a balanced, slow-release fertiliser during growing months
• Remove spent flower stems and dead or yellowing leaves regularly

Jade plant (Crassula ovate)

Best for: sunny gardens

A compact succulent with great form and pretty heads of pinky-white flowers, the Jade plant practically thrives on neglect and is easy to grow in pots outside.

Tips for growing Jape plants in pots:

• Select a pot that is wide and shallow
• Use a well-draining potting mix designed for succulents or cacti
• Ensure at least 4-6 hours of sunlight per day
• Allow soil to dry out completely between waterings
• Use a balanced fertiliser during growing months

The post The best outdoor potted plants to add a feature to your garden  appeared first on Homes To Love.